Now that my last blog post “Thailand-Know Before You Go” has you at the edge of your seat wanting more, here I’ll share my days in Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Though I’m no better a photographer than I am a writer, the phrase “a picture is worth 1000 words” comes to mind when attempting to describe this beautifully unique place so I will rely on photos more than usual to help tell my story and have included some automatically playing slideshows below so scroll slowly to enjoy. Our complete itinerary had us in Bangkok for 2 nights, followed by Chiang Mai for 2 nights, then Phuket for 3 nights, Phi Phi Island for 2 nights, Railay Beach for 4 nights, then back in Bangkok for the last 2 nights. In hindsight, I would definitely shorten Bangkok and Railay and lengthen Chiang Mai and Phuket. My next post will focus on the beach locations, but first our adventures in the cities.
We arrived in Bangkok around 10 pm local time, 23 hours and 2 flights after leaving Atlanta. We grabbed a cab to the hotel catching our first glimpses as the city sped by from the highway. It could have been any major international city, and it’s always striking to note the similarities and differences between them. Traffic flowed well until we exited at the popular hotel and night life area of Sukhumvit Rd where it came to a virtual standstill. The street was lined with vendors and pedestrians, and we got our first introduction to the crazy traffic and driving. I closed my eyes once we turned down our tiny alley Soi 15 to play chicken with the oncoming traffic and innocent bystanders maneuvering around the parked cars. After checking into our very nice hotel, Dream Bangkok (www.dreamhotels.com/bangkok) where we paid $89/night, we planned to drug ourselves to sleep in order to get on the local time schedule. Of course we were way too excited for that, so we headed out in the clothes we’d been wearing all day to see what Bangkok got into on a Friday night. There was a small Irish Pub called the Drunken Leprechaun nearby where we first encountered the huge Thai food menus and lame fruity cocktail lists that would accompany every meal the next 2 weeks. The cute courtyard in the back was empty so we sat on the small patio up front watching the people walk by. Next we bypassed the Hooters (though the bright orange sign was a blessing when we needed to find our way home), and went around the corner to the main street to walk amongst the vendors selling everything from knockoff designer accessories and underwear to sex toys and the accompanying medications that will send you to the ER if their effects linger more than 4 hours. We found another patio at a Mexican restaurant and watched a drug deal go down over some terrible wine. Then it was off to bed with the assistance of meds to reset our body clocks.
We got a late start the next morning after enjoying the hotel’s included buffet breakfast. We took a cab to the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (“wat” means temple so you’ll hear this a lot). Traffic was horrible on a Saturday, but the long ride only cost 150 baht on the meter, or $7, for which he had to get change for our larger bills from a street vendor. This area was over-crowded with tourists and made for an unpleasant visit at 500 baht, or $15, especially since my friend was told her scarf was not adequate shoulder coverage so she ended up wearing a rain coat in near 100 degree temps. It was difficult to navigate or enjoy with the large crowds mostly just standing in the way, but the ornate buildings and Buddhist architecture were magnificent to behold. We ditched our shoes as required and entered the room with the Emerald Buddah statue, who happens to be a relatively small fella. Afternoon prayers were in progress as we sat quietly behind the monks, careful not to point the bottoms of our feet toward the religious statues. We wound around the site dodging clueless tourists (much like ourselves but lacking purpose) until we happily found the exit.
From there, we walked to Wat Pho (pronounced “po”) as I was corrected by the gentleman attempting to swindle us. As the loudspeakers were advising overhead not to trust anyone outside the palace, a known scam unfolded before us. A well-spoken and inquisitive man hoping to appear helpful informed us that Wat Pho was closed to non-Thais for a holiday and offered to take us up the river to the floating markets for a fee. We declined and continued on our short walk to the very open Wat Pho as planned (100B/$3). This was a breath of fresh air compared to the crowds we’d just endured despite being well known for the huge Reclining Buddah statue. The most popular spot in there was the renowned massage school where we received our first of many Thai massages for $12 an hour, which we later learned was actually quite high. After enjoying the grounds’ koi ponds and water features, we found an area of restaurants nearby overlooking the river and Wat Arun to enjoy a snack and some drinks. Eat Sight Story was our fave for the prawn spring rolls and lychee martini.
For dinner we found a spot recommended by Lonely Planet for its rooftop dining and great city views, Phra Nakorn Bar & Gallery. I had the most amazing shrimp pad thai I’ve ever had in my life along with the worst service, which turns out is the norm in Thailand. This is a locals spot with live music and a chill vibe where groups of friends come to wind down on a Saturday night. Our map indicated there were more bars just across the busy street of Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. Little did we know we were heading into the Bourbon St of Thailand, Khaosan Rd, packed with young tourists from the nearby hostels. The street was closed to traffic and replaced with drunk and debaucherous youths huffing laughing gas, eating scorpions and other bugs, and attending ping pong shows. We walked down to a quiet but cool spot at the end, Superflow Beach Club, with a faux beach vibe. By the time we walked back, most places had shut down surprisingly early for a Saturday night, dumping the patrons onto the street to vomit and pass out. After a long walk to negotiate an agreeable taxi rate, we went back to the Sukhumvit area only to find that most places were also closed except for the clubs which did not allow my “flip flops” (though I can assure you I was wearing fashionable sandals which accented my dress nicely). We got a little lost walking home, encountered a street lined with rats eating garbage, and settled on the place from the previous night for some late night cake and terrible wine.
We arrived in Chiang Mai on Sunday afternoon via short flight on Thai Airlines for $43 each. Our hotel, Shewe Wana Boutique Resort & Spa (www.shewewana.com), picked us up from the airport and delivered us to the jungle-like setting of our romantic eco abode ($72/night). We took a tuk tuk to the old City Gate and walked to Wat Chedi Luang (40B/$1) as the Sunday Market Street was just getting set up. We watched quietly as the young monks began evening prayers despite a dog wandering in to lick himself in the back. In addition to the more modern and elaborate buildings of worship, there is an ancient “chedi” mound from the 1400s which now lies in stabilized ruin. We then joined a couple monks under the “Monk Chat” tent and nervously talked with a young man about his life and travels though the language barrier was a bit of a challenge. He had lived there for 6 years after traveling in Nepal and India, and we discussed the more recent interest Westerners have for learning about meditation.
Then we walked through the growing crowds of the street market to the large Wat Phra Singh (paid a small amount I believe but can't find the ticket) passing other temples on the way, a highly concentrated area of only a couple blocks. They were setting up for some sort of large event, perhaps monk graduation, and had the main temple closed. We enjoyed a peaceful walk around the grounds amongst the many smaller buildings and gazebos where worshipers offer blessings and make offerings. Next it was out into Sunday Walking Street, many blocks of street vendors so crowded with shoppers looking for a great deal (and there were many) you could barely move. We stepped into a restaurant patio to watch the chaos over $3 pad thai and drinks. Along our walk out, we couldn’t resist a $6 hour long foot massage in plastic chairs along a back alley while the craziness of the market flowed by. While bargaining for our tuk tuk ride home which is always more than it was to get out somewhere, we witnessed our only minor accident, surprising with the way they drive all over the country.
We were up early and very excited on Monday morning for our day at Elephant Rescue Park (www.elephantrescuepark.com). We researched locations that treated their animals humanely and did not allow riding which is harmful to the elephants. When we found the relatively new Elephant Rescue Park with its 3 baby elephants that we would be feeding, walking, and bathing, it was a perfect fit. We paid $63 each for their Program B Half Day 8 am to 2 pm which included transportation from our hotel, lunch and snacks, bottled water, and a t-shirt. After a delicious healthy breakfast at our resort, the park’s van picked us up along with a young couple from Denmark. The drive into the mountains took about an hour with a stop at a coffee shop and then local market to get ingredients to make the elephants’ snacks. This local market is known for selling some of the more unusual edibles along with meats sitting out in open air, and the smell drove us out fairly quickly. When we arrived at the park, we were given uniforms to wear as the elephants respond best to only a few solid colors. We prepared their snacks out of sticky rice, salt, and tamarind rolled into a ball while learning from our lovely instructor Aom about the park, their elephants, and elephants in general. In this area of north Thailand, elephants were used primarily for work in the lumber industry which is now illegal. This left rural families with a large and expensive animal that could no longer bring in income, so they would be sold or rented for entertainment purposes, exposing them to harsh training, cruel treatment, and unnatural environments. Fortunately there are some true rescue organizations saving them and giving them a better life, though many still allow riding to meet tourist demands. Their first rescue was a 37 year old gal named Jeab who they sadly lost due to a foot infection from her days being paraded in the streets. Since then, they have adopted 3 young babies all around 2 years old-Pailin, Nam Choke, and Shabu. Each elephant has a “mahout” or caregiver who lives with them developing a trusting relationship, hopefully for life.
We were beside ourselves once we got to meet our friends for the day and laughing as their trunks touched our hands to get their snacks. Then we took a short walk with them while carrying banana tree trunks to plant in the jungle. Another family from England with 3 children joined us for lunch, and we all went back out to feed them sugar cane and small bananas which they eat whole including the peel. We all then walked up the hillside with the elephants stopping frequently to snack on plants and keep themselves cool by putting grass on their back, flapping their ears, and even eating mud. At the top we rested in the gazebo where Nam Choke immediately went into nap mode protecting his valuable trunk in his mouth while his buddies danced and poked into our pockets for hidden sugar cane. After resting in the shade, we walked back down to their watering hole then finally we all got into a lagoon together for bath time. We scrubbed their backs and teeth with brushes while splashing each other playfully in the water. I was backed into by one the elephants during the fun and was grateful we were with the little guys on this one. Sadly we had to say goodbye and head to our next adventure after some snacks and fresh coconut water. One tip for anyone who visits, bring your own toilet paper as it is not provided here if you are not comfortable with the spray and plan to dispose of it in the trashcan.
We had arranged to be dropped off at the Karen Long Neck Tribe Village on the way home to learn about a way of life that is slowly becoming extinct, and paid $7 each for the additional transportation. Unfortunately, this experience was not what we had hoped for. We were unexpectedly charged 500B ($15) each for entry which I hope goes directly to support the people of the village. This particular set up was touristy with the women of the village lined up along the path selling the same crafts they do everywhere. It was very unnatural and uncomfortable, feeling more like a human zoo than a genuine cultural experience as we had hoped. There was an overwhelming feeling of sadness and isolation in the air. I asked to take the few photos I did but felt very awkward, and unfortunately was completely out of money so could only offer gratitude. The tribe relies on this for income so we were happy to support them with the entrance fee but otherwise would not recommend visiting.
Our guide and the nice couple from Denmark were nearby at the Elephant PooPooPaper Park (www.poopoopaperpark.com) which was included in the full day program they purchased. Though we were completely out of money for admission, we were allowed in to meet them. In case you did not gather from the name, here they recycle elephant poo along with that of other animals to make paper. I’m all for going green, but this seemed too gross to be acceptable or enjoyable. Fortunately, I was wrong. Elephants are vegetarians so if you think they walk around like their shit don’t stink, it’s because it doesn’t. Over half of what they eat comes right back out, so they basically are providing the first step in the paper making process for free. The fibrous waste is then dried, boiled, and colored prior to being spread onto wire frames and dried in the sun. Visitors can be as involved in this process as they desire, as well as paying a little extra to decorate cards to bring home using the PooPooPaper. There is a gift shop as well because we all know someone who needs a notebook made from shit.
I don’t know how to transition from poo to dinner, but after a thorough cleansing, we looked up a highly recommended spot to eat. Our tuk tuk driver was kind but had no idea where he was taking us despite the screen shot of the address. I eventually relayed the suggestion that he call them, and we eventually arrived at Dash (www.dashteakhouse.com), a gorgeous 2 story teak house with live music and relaxed outdoor seating including cushions on the ground at low tables. I felt like Norm from Cheers when the owner/manager thought he recognized me and wish my gorgeous doppleganger out there the best. We finally had some good wine along with a yummy meal and called it an early night in preparation for our flight to Phuket the next morning.
I’m going to skip ahead 9 days now (because it’s my blog and I can do what I want), saving the beach locales for my next post. We arrived back in Bangkok the following Thursday to stay not only at the same hotel, but in the same exact room. I can’t describe the overwhelming feeling to walk in just as we had done 2 weeks prior full of excitement for the unknown adventures that lay ahead and now to do the same as the trip was coming to its conclusion. We rested most of the day as the weeks of constant traveling, eating, and drinking were taking a toll on us. We walked to a great spot for dinner, no longer the Thailand novices fearful of the aggressive drivers we shared the road with but perhaps a little too confident in our navigation skills as I lead us in the wrong direction initially. Above Eleven (www.aboveeleven.com) is an open-air rooftop bar, restaurant, and lounge encompassing the 32nd through 34th floor of the Fraser Suites with panoramic views of the city. It was one of the pricier places we went, but comparable with a metropolitan restaurant back home. Tired of Thai food and generic drinks at this point, we enjoyed their Japanese Peruvian fusion menu with specialty cocktails and respectable wine list. Dress to impress and snag a reservation, both points we failed to do but were able to get bar seats upon our early arrival. The bathroom even has a view of the city from the glass floor once you find it behind the literal maze of faux shrubbery which makes up for the stuffy long elevator ride. We called it an early night as the exhaustion of the past 2 weeks crept over us.
On Friday we went back into tourist mode to check out a few places we missed the first time around. We started at Golden Mount (20B/$0.57) where we walked up a couple hundred oddly spaced steps to the top of this manmade hill, passing water features, statues, and rows of bells along the way. Perhaps we should have rung the bells for good luck more vigorously as the next day brought us some misadventures. There are prayer and offering spaces at the top and a small curved staircase leading to the very top you don’t want to miss. From the apex there are gorgeous views of the city where you can appreciate the mingling of the old and the new, the traditional and the modern, the spiritual and the secular.
Next we grabbed a tuk tuk to Phra Chang Pier which brought questions from the driver as we were heading out of the tourist area, but we were on a mission. We took the ferry (3B/$0.09) across the river to Siriraj Hospital to visit the medical museum, aka “Museum of Death.” This would not be our last visit to a Thai hospital but the only time it was planned. This large campus included a medical school and very busy full service hospital which of course we got lost in. The museum is split into 3 areas--anatomy, forensics, and parasitology—plus a few other areas for an additional fee we did not visit. I don’t remember what we paid, a couple hundred baht, and your belongings must be placed in a locker outside as photography is not allowed. The first area featured autopsied fetuses with congenital anomalies and cross-sections of diseased organs. The next area contained the mummified bodies of executed cannibalistic serial killer rapists, bloodied clothing and personal belongings of murder victims, and the weapons with which they were killed (including a dildo). There’s also a display about the medical and forensic response to the tsunami in 2004 alongside the numerous damaged skulls and horrific crime scene and accident photos. The final area taught about elephantiasis, insect borne disease, and the reasons you don’t drink the water. There’s also a little café in case that’s the kind of thing that makes you hungry.
Once on the opposite side of the river, we took an excrutiating 2 mile afternoon stroll in the heat down to Wat Arun, aka The Temple of the Dawn (50B/$1.50). We had some difficulty finding the entrance from the road as it is more often entered from the pier side. Unfortunately the tall spire was closed due to construction, but we were able to appreciate the mosaic detail that made up the designs around the temple. We took the ferry back over to the restaurant area along the river we found the first time, and enjoyed some A/C and drinks at Sala followed by a very touchy Thai massage for $7. It was raining by this time so we shopped a little then argued with the taxi drivers refusing to the use the meter. The ride out had been 150B on the meter, and they were asking for 450B to get home amid a list of excuses such as rain, rush hour traffic, and another fake holiday. We agreed on 250B and had our quickest taxi ride yet with a driver who shared his Thai music with us and was very interested in chatting though communication was frustrating for all of us.
Still over the Thai food, we walked to Charley Browns for Mexican, and I was overjoyed to see an avocado. This area of Suhkumvit at Soi 11 was very happening with small bars and restaurants, we wished we had found it sooner. We were too tired to manage the crowds so we walked down a little bit, finding ourselves in the red light district and then stopping in an English pub where a scantily clad postoperative “ladyboy” ran the pool table. (See my previous post to learn more about the transgender culture in Thailand and understand I intend no offense in using the common terminology.)
On Saturday, we had to checkout of our hotel at noon though our flight was not until 10 pm. We purposefully were running low on money not wanting to have to exchange any back so our final day we just planned to walk around locally. We went to one of the big malls nearby, Terminal 21 at Sukhumvit and Soi 21. There were 8 floors each with a different international city theme. The mall has over 50 restaurants, 600 shops, a grocery store, and a movie theater. We left empty bellied and empty handed to get a foot massage down the street. Then we enjoyed a small snack and drink at a German Biergarden where we googled a spot to get our next massage. We walked down to the highly rated Tony’s Thai Massage which only charges 100B($3)/hr and were told the wait would be an hour. We said we’d be back then and were going to grab a bite to eat. We checked out the Soi Cowboy area, a red light district featured in the movie The Hangover, and waited out the remainder of our time over a drink at an Irish Pub only to be told upon return that our hour did not count toward our wait time since we had left, which of course had not been communicated. Our time was too limited to wait another hour so we left feeling upset and knowing our time would have been respected if had we been male and likely to pay for “extra” services. As far as I was concerned, at 4:00 we had made an appointment for 5:00 which was not honored. We passed by many other 100B/hr places with young pretty girls out front, opting to go back to the more expensive (yet still really cheap) seemingly legit place we had been earlier which accepted credit cards. Holding onto our little bit of cash proved to be helpful as the unexpected events of the night unfolded. Unfortunately, we had learned a little too much about the illicit extra features provided with massages during our google search earlier to be comfortable, especially when the massage pads in the common room were full and I was escorted to the private “oil massage” room. Finally it was time to walk back to the hotel to get our luggage and head to the airport. Here is where everything went awry…
We walked past the common scene of a street cat eating garbage, but unfortunately this one got startled and either scratched or bit my friend’s foot whose bloody sandal now looked like it belonged in the Museum of Death. We conducted quick research using the hotel’s wifi to find out the airport had a medical clinic. We had held aside the necessary baht for the taxi, and after checking our luggage onto our flight to Korea, we saw the doctor on site. That visit cost 500B/$15 via credit card only to find out he recommended getting the rabies treatment shot at the hospital, as the clinic only had the vaccine available which is different. They gave us the appropriate paperwork to show the airline in order to change our flight, but there was a very unsympathetic and untrusting man who would not help us at the Korean Air desk. After wasting 30 min we didn’t have arguing with him, we left the airport with our luggage already checked onto the flight we were likely going to miss and no assurance that we could be booked onto the next flight. The hospital was about 15 minutes away, and the staff was very nice, knowledgeable, and efficient compared to a US hospital. They even called the airline for us as requested to prove we actually went to the hospital and confirmed we were booked on the next flight. Communication was difficult, but this doctor did not feel the rabies treatment shot was necessary and that the vaccine would be sufficient. Since we had come there for that specifically based on the previous recommendation missing our flight to do so, we requested it anyways until we learned it would be 40,000B/$1145. We left with the first of a 4 shot vaccine series and a thorough cleaning for 2200B/$63, paid for the cab with change collected for my friend’s nieces, and ran in just under the wire to catch the last flight. Twenty hours on 2 completely full flights went surprisingly quickly, then it was back to the grind after a couple days to adjust to the time change to start saving for our next trip!