Hawaii’s oldest island, at a whopping 5 million years old, happens to also be one of its most stunning. Known as the Garden Isle, Kauai is covered with lush rainforest and rugged mountains waiting for you to explore. From the breathtaking Napali Coast to the impressive Waimea Canyon (aka Grand Canyon of the Pacific), this island is a hiker’s dream. Surfers, snorkelers, kayakers, and tubers will have plenty to do in the oceans and rivers of Kauai. Though relaxing at a resort is also a great way to spend a vacation, this is probably not the island for it with so very much to do and see. In fact, there are no buildings higher than four stories and the majority of the island is uninhabited, so Kauai retains much of its natural state.
There is one major road going around 3/4 of the island’s coast and only a few roads going inland from there. A rental car is a must to get to all the island’s activities, and a 4x4 is recommended for some of the more remote areas. Additionally, we used the Gypsy Guide GPS based app to advise us on the area and provide a history of the island. The airport and cruise port are in the capital of Lihue on the east coast, which is where you will find major chain shopping centers. Just north of there is the most populated city of Kapa’a, and both of these are great locations to stay between the activities of the north and south. We opted to stay 4 nights in Princeville in the north followed by 5 nights in Poipu in the south. We absolutely loved our Hanalei Bay view AirBnB in Princeville as well as our oceanfront Vacasa rental in Poipu, both equipped with beach supplies and designated parking (but not A/C which is quite common). The locations were great for being near everything without being in a crowded area, having nearby local markets, and a quick walk to spectacular sunset views. The north shore receives much more rain, so we were glad to be in this area first and for less time then retreating to the sunny south for the majority of our stay. I’ll break down what we did by region though the island is relatively small and you can get from one end of the road to the other (remember it doesn’t go all the way around due to the mountains) in about 2 and a half hours. A final tip for dining on the island, be sure to check hours and days of operation as they are often limited, and get reservations if there’s really somewhere you want to get into. The island seems to really shut down early without much night life to speak of, which is fine considering all the daytime activities.
The North-Princeville, Hanalei Bay, Kalalau Trail
Princeville is a small resort town with an array of condos, golf courses, coastline, and a shopping center with a Foodland grocery store, shops, and eateries. There are a handful of notable places to visit in the area, many of which were not easy to get to and/or closed. Hideaway Beach is a beautiful secluded rocky beach known for snorkeling we reached via the steep private paved path located in the first parking lot of Pali Ke Kua condo complex after being unable to find the public access. Queen’s Bath is on every must see list, yet it’s actually closed despite the always full parking area. We learned this from the fire rescue team bringing a stretcher down to help an injured thrill seeker, but only after slipping all the way down the muddy trail ourselves. The famous sunset spot at the former St Regis Hotel, which declined in reputation as the Princeville Resort more recently, is currently closed for renovation by the 1 Hotels group to reopen in Fall 2022. The Kenomene Ocean Sunset Outlook and Happy Talk Lounge offer great sunset view alternatives in the mean time. Nearby in the town of Kilauea to the east, there’s the Kilauea Lighthouse which can be viewed from a lookout but requires reservations to go into the wildlife refuge. Another viewpoint is from below at Secret Beach, a beautiful secluded beach requiring a steep slippery hike down (Google Maps got us right to the trailhead whereas Apple Maps was incorrect). For a large easy to access beach in the area, head to Anini Beach with good snorkeling near the boat ramp at the main parking lot or more privacy along the far ends.
The small town of Hanalei just west of Princeville is a quintessential Hawaiian neighborhood with shops and dining sandwiched between the mountains and the beach. Less frequented than the towns of the east and south, a relaxed hippie vibe emanates as you walk along the storefronts enjoying breakfast bites from the Aloha Juice Bar truck to the Holey Grail donut truck. We popped into Tahiti Nui to avoid a rainstorm one afternoon and picked up fresh poke to go from the Hanalei Dolphin Fish Market after a long day. Down the road is a half moon shaped bay where beginner surf lessons are held under the backdrop of the mountains. There are also a few scenic lookouts in the area approaching the town from Princeville, but use caution on the many one lane bridges respecting the local courtesy of stopping after 5-7 cars to allow the other side to pass. From Hanalei, you can continue west to the end of the road passing Tunnels Beach and Haena Beach where the Maniniholo Dry Cave is located. At the end of the road is Ke’e Beach which requires the Haena State Park parking permit (see below).
We primarily came to the north to hike the famous Kalalau Trail along the Napali Coast. This 22 mile out and back trail is considered one of the most beautiful yet dangerous in the world. A permit is needed to park or ride the shuttle which can be obtained at GoHaena if you’re lucky. They are available 30 days in advance at midnight Hawaii local time for $10 per parking time slot (morning, afternoon, and/or evening) plus $5/person park entry or $35/person for the shuttle including park entry. I was online immediately and was unable to get the parking that we wanted and ultimately used the shuttle service. We only hiked the first 2 miles in to Hanakapiai Beach then turned inland 2 miles to Hanakapiai Falls. Going further on the Kalalau Trail requires an additional camping permit available 90 days in advance. While this hike had amazing views along the coast, a beautiful beach, and a huge 300 foot waterfall with swimming hole, it was extremely difficult for me and ultimately not worth it in my unpopular opinion. We ended up doing 10 miles total in 10 hours with nearly constant up and downs, 2800 feet of elevation gain, multiple water crossings, rock scramblings, mud slippings, precarious ledges, the world’s most disgusting bathroom, and more than a few tears shed. Perhaps I’m not the best person to ask, but there are other ways to see the Napali Coast such as from a boat or a helicopter as well as more favorable hikes on the risk/reward scale as I’ll describe below.
The East-Sleeping Giant, Luau Kalamaku, Ke Ala Hele Makalae Path
We spent time on the east coast during our transition from the north to the south as well as on our last day after checking out. We started our day with a delicious scenic roadside breakfast at Kalalea Jucie Hale before hiking the Sleeping Giant Trail. There are two ways to approach the trail, but we heard that ‘west is best’ so we began the 1.7 mile trek at the small parking area on Lokelani Rd. This area had not received as much rain as the north and was a much more pleasant experience in the drier dirt. The huge Cook Pine tree forest makes for an amazing shaded hike. The trail is mostly moderate until near the summit when there is a rock wall to scramble, but worth it for the views and cave window to the valley. Nearby are two waterfalls you can view from the road, Opaeka’a Falls and Wailua Falls. From there, we followed the advise of our Gypsy Guide app to Hamura Saimin, an amazing local spot for traditional noodle soup and lilikoi chiffon pie.
One of our evenings in Poipu, we traveled the short distance back to Lihue for the Luau Kalamaku. Running Tuesdays and Fridays, this is quite the large but well organized operation. While we enjoyed the small craft shopping area and traditional show, the included drinks and food were just mediocre. A luau is an expensive but arguably necessary part of a Hawaiian vacation, and this is one of a few similar productions in Kauai with the Smith Family Luau also being highly recommended. The fact that after paying over $160 per person, they still charge additional fees for the train ride, photographs, and premier seating is off-putting but not out of the norm for a touristy experience.
Another activity my husband enjoyed out of Lihue was going deep sea fishing with Go Fish Kauai. He was lucky to catch us a mahi which we made into delicious ceviche that evening by picking up fresh pico, limes, pineapple, and avocado at the Safeway grocery store in Lihue. You’re welcome!
On our final day after checking out of our condo, we needed something to do until our late flight, a common issue in Kauai, that wouldn’t get us too messy. After visiting Polihale Beach (see below), we returned to the east coast to be near the airport. We grabbed lunch based on a local’s recommendation from Lawai Fish Market with almost too many poke choices and took it down to Kalapaki Beach to watch the surfers. From there we ended up in Kapa’a enjoying a stroll down the Ke Ala Hele Makalae Path, an 8 mile paved multi-use path along the coast running from Lydgate Beach Park to Waipouli Beach Park. There are many bike rental shops in town, but slow down to keep an eye out for whales and monk seals.
The South-Maha’ulepa Heritage Trail, Waimea Canyon, Sunset Cruise, Polihale Beach
Poipu is probably the most popular tourist area just 30 minutes south of the airport. It’s a great jumping off point to visit the rest of the southern region of Kauai with a number of large resort complexes and condo rentals. One of our most enjoyable afternoons was spent hiking the Maha’ulepa Heritage Trail at Shipwreck Beach. We did a total 4.8 miles round trip finishing at the Makauwahi Cave and Tortoise Refuge though you can continue to the labyrinth and Ha’ula Beach. There are many forks in the trails and some which appear to go through on the map which do not, so we meandered a bit more than necessary. The hike starts off in the shaded woods, then along a beautiful golf course to the open rugged coastline. We loved the amazing views along the coast, lucky to see an endangered monk seal resting on the beach. We had a hard time finding the cave entrance and missed the cave’s open hours of 10-4, but continued across the bridge to see the tortoises before turning back. You can also reach the cave and refuge by dirt road without the hike.
A must do day trip is to Waimea Canyon, also known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. This 14 mile long, 1 mile wide, and 3600 feet deep canyon is accessible from the town of Waimea on the southern coast. The highway brings you inland to Waimea State Park and further into Koke’e State Park. About an hour from Poipu, I suggest going straight to the top to view the Kalalau and Pu’u o Kilo Lookouts as these areas can fill in with clouds anytime but more likely in the afternoons. Once you park, there will be a box to pay the $10 parking fee plus $5/person entry fee good for all parking areas in the parks. Surprisingly, there is not much else for info or park rangers around, so download any maps you’d like beforehand (spotty signal). There are many additional pullouts to view the canyon from the road as you head back down. If you’d like to hike, there are are tons of options up there. We started with the Pihea Trail at the Pu’u o Kila Lookout for stunning views of the Napali Coast to the ocean. We then returned to the Kalalau Lookout which had been hidden by clouds earlier to find it nice and clear. From there, many take the now CLOSED Kalepa Ridge Trail departing around the fence offering the best views of the ridge. Staff will not discuss the trail with you or if they do, they will make sure you know it is illegal and not a high priority for rescue assistance. After reading a review describing a hiker falling great depths when the rocky path gave way, I was not willing to the take this trail myself yet was unsuccessful in deterring my husband who loved it. From there, we drove down to the Pu’u Hinahina Lookout parking area to take the Canyon Trail to Waipo’o Falls. In hindsight, we should have driven our 4x4 down to the parking area at the end of Halemanu Rd as the Pu’u Hinahina Trail offered nothing but misery and extra mileage. Do not miss the Cliff Trail Lookout just after the Halemanu parking lot. The extraordinary canyon views continue to wow all the way to the small waterfall, but don’t make the mistake we did and turn back as there’s another double waterfall down there. Shoutout to the Texas group who after telling us we missed the second falls, offered us a ride back up from the lower parking lot as a consolation!
Another amazing activity was going on a sunset dinner cruise of the Napali Coast with Blue Dolphin Charters. Leaving from Port Allen around 2 pm, this double decker catamaran takes you around the island to the breathtaking views of the rugged mountain coastline. If you’re lucky, you can see whales, dolphins, and monk seals too. Drinks and dinner are served on the way back which were just ok, and the sun sets behind you as you’re pulling back into port. The seas can be rough and most of the lower deck is a splash zone, so plan accordingly. They also offer daytime snorkeling trips.
Our final day brought us out to Polihale Beach State Park, but only after our second trip to the amazing Aloha Sweet Delights in Kaumakani (stop here on the way to Waimea too!). One of the best local treats is the malasada pastry, a plain or custard filled doughnut brought to Hawaii by the Portuguese plantation workers. The Spanish ensaymadas and Japanese manju they offer exemplify the melting pot of culinary influences that make up Hawaiian cuisine. This roadside bakery and market do not look like much from the outside, but it is absolutely worth a stop as you’ll see many locals coming in for their daily sugar fix. Polihale Beach is at the end of a bumpy rocky road as far as you can go before hitting the mountains again. Warnings against bringing rental vehicles off road deter many, but I actually read our contract and did not see any such violation. With a 4x4 on a dry day, we had no trouble bumbling along the 4 miles to a small parking pullout with picnic tables. The untouched secluded beach is quite impressive with bright blue waters against the white sand dunes covered in lush greenery all under the towering black cliffs. Rough conditions make swimming here dangerous, but we took a stroll on the beach before heading back out to admire the famous Monkey Pod Tree.
Despite all these amazing activities, many come to the south of Kauai to hang at the beach and eat some delicious food. After some long days and big hikes, we were glad to have some down time in Poipu. We were lucky to be staying near one of the best sunset and snorkeling spots in the area at Lawai Beach. We brought our own snorkeling gear though it can be rented nearby or you can even go with a guided snuba tour. We also enjoyed snorkeling at Poipu Beach, and Puka Dogs is a must when you work up a hunger chasing all the fishies, definitely worth the wait. There are a few local markets which also serve fresh grab and go bites such as Anake’s Juice Bar in Kukui’ula Store and traditional plate lunches at Sueoka Market. We also loved our breakfast at Little Fish Coffee which offered bagels in addition to the smoothies and bowls. We mistakenly showed up with no dinner reservations, but were able to get into Stevenson’s Sushi & Spirits in the Hyatt same day, definitely try the sushi pizza on naan bread! We also enjoyed Keoki’s Paradise open air traditional Hawaiian style restaurant’s yummy cocktails, seafood risotto, and famous hula pie along with spectacular service. Our experience at the popular beachfront fine dining spot Beach House was less than impressive, so I’d just say skip it and bring a picnic to the public grassy area out front to enjoy the sunset. You may be lucky to see a wedding taking place (a common complaint of the restaurant patrons due to noise and obstructed views), but watching the gorgeous photography as the waves crash into the rocks is enjoyable. Nearby is the roadside attraction Spouting Horn, a natural blowhole shooting water spouts into the air with every wave. A visit to Koloa Town and drive through the Tunnel of Trees is a great way to spend a little down time. And last but certainly not least of our relaxing post-hiking activities was getting an in-home massage on our beachfront lanai with Amy’s Mobile Massage Kauai. At $110/hour, this option is far less than the hotel spas, and Misha was excellent!
Even with all these activities, there’s still many more things to do on Kauai that we didn’t make it to. One of the most popular is floating along the irrigation channels and through the dark tunnels of a former plantation with Kauai Backcountry Adventures. They also offer ziplining. Kayak Kauai offers a kayaking tour along the Wailua River to Secret Falls. Kauai ATV will take you on a backroads adventure. There are many botanical gardens, movie tours, and Smith’s Fern Grotto boat tour. Kauai also has many more hikes, mostly on the difficult side, and I was able to use All Trails free 7 day trial while there to download offline maps as there is not always service in the remote areas. One tip any time I travel somewhere with a cruise port is to check the schedule and avoid tours or areas they are likely to frequent. Currently, ships are in port on Mondays and Thursdays in Lihue. Lastly, most flights leave Kauai in the evenings, long after required checkout, and I found some helpful advice at Kauai Travel Blog including the use of the Resort Pass to get a day pass to a pool or spa for those homeless few hours.
We absolutely loved our active honeymoon in Kauai! Being fortunate to have traveled to many beautiful places around the world, it is certainly up there with the scenery and experiences in Costa Rica, Bali, and of course Maui. Originally we had a trip planned to Kauai in April of 2020 that was canceled due to Covid. Unbeknown to me, my now husband planned to propose on that trip so honeymooning there seemed appropriate, plus we had an itinerary already researched at a time when we were busy planning a wedding. It was quite eye-opening to say the least having the prices written down pre-pandemic as compared to now with everything at an approximate 30% increase to make up for the tourism industry’s big hit. Unfortunately, we did contract a mild case of Covid ourselves on the way home despite being vaccinated, grateful we were well during our trip. The change in airport and flight policies is leading to an increase in infections, and in retrospect we should not have let our guard down. Kauai itself felt very safe even with no masking mandates as almost everything we did was outdoors with the breezy mild temperatures. I wish everyone safe, happy, and healthy travels this upcoming busy season!
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