To ‘practice aloha’ is more than just a trendy bumper sticker to the Hawaiian people but rather a kind and compassionate way of life. I was fortunate to learn about it first hand in Maui from the small towns where roadside fruit stands are run on the honor system to the friendly people passing by always offering a cheerful greeting. It was quite nice to be so far from home, immersed in a different culture and surrounded by beautiful foreign scenery, yet not have to convert anything from my US standard--not the money, the temperature, the distances, my hairdryer--while my cell phone worked (almost) everywhere for info and directions. Like my recent Greece travels sparked by a video shared on social media, this holiday was inspired by a Be My Travel Muse blog called “How to Have an Awesome Solo Trip in Maui” which I most certainly did. I combined the advice gleaned there along with recommendations given on a Solo Travel Society post and from my own social media network to come up with a game plan. Here’s what I did, how I did it, things I loved, and those that I would do differently.
YOU MUST RENT A CAR! If you stop reading now and learn nothing else from this post, I will be happy (not really so please keep reading). There is nothing wrong with the kind of vacation where you only stay within your resort or immediate area, but please do not do that here. Driving in Maui is very easy not to mention FUN! The amazing views around every cliffside curve will have you in constant awe, but please lookout for the many masochists, I mean cyclists ;). I rented a basic economy car from E-Z Rent-a-Car via www.discounthawaiicarrental.com at $270 for 1 week plus $60 in gas and put over 1000 miles on her! Financially this just makes sense:
Shared airport shuttle: $63 round trip
Road to Hana tour: $140
Haleakala sunrise tour: $170
Hiking tour: $100+
Uber: $30-$60 each way from Lahaina to mid-Maui locations
Freedom: Priceless!!!
I absolutely loved staying in Lahaina on the west coast (aloha sunset!) despite the distance to activities, particularly when visiting the other wetter and cooler areas. Maui is made up of many micro-climates due to the trade winds and mountain ranges, but Lahaina stayed warm and dry the entire trip even when it was raining just up the road. Despite having 120 miles of coastline, much of Maui is made up of cliffs limiting the beach to roughly 30 miles of which Lahaina boasts many. I would highly recommend staying on or near Front Street which is the quintessential and historic harbor town road of shops and restaurants rather than the overly commercialized resort and golf course area to the north. I stayed at a hostel called The Lahaina Beach House, though more guest house than hostel, at $60/night for a bunk bed in a 4 female dorm with shared bathroom (private rooms are $140, all share bathrooms). Staying in the 5 bedroom 2 bathroom house on the beach far exceeded my expectations. With 2 other similar shared homes on the same road, ours was unquestionably the nicest and catered to an older crowd including couples. Hawaii is extremely expensive compared to where I live in the southeastern US, so having the availability of a full kitchen greatly reduced daily food costs. I was also considering the ultra budget friendly Banana Bungalow hostel on the north shore which includes airport transfers and free daily tours, but ultimately knew the young party vibe, less desirable location, and questionable cleanliness were not going to work for me. Lodging for every budget and size is available in Maui from camping on the beach to 5 star resorts to homes or condos for rent, so you will definitely find something that works for you.
There’s so much to do in Maui, and I tend towards the more active vacations with some time to relax of course. Outside of knowing I wanted to do the early activities while my body clock was still set 5 hours ahead, I used the first day to get the lay of the land and work out my week’s itinerary:
Thursday: late evening arrival
Friday: sunrise beach and Front Street walk, botched trip to Paia then Whaler’s Village (see below), Jodo Buddhist temple and Baby Beach in Lahaina
Saturday: Road to Hana
Sunday: Molokini Crater snorkel and whale watch, Big Beach at Makena State Park
Monday: Upcountry--Kula Botanical Garden, AKL Lavender Farm, Maui Wines, Haleakala crater
Tuesday: Northwest coast--Nakalele blowhole, Kapalua Coastal Trail, Feast at Lele Luau
Wednesday: Iao Needle, Kepaniwai Park Heritage Gardens
Thursday: Lomi Lomi massage with Mina, Launiupoko Beach Park, Maui Plantation & Mill House, late night departure
There are so many other things to do in Maui such as surfing, paddle boarding, kite surfing, paragliding, cycling, horseback riding, golfing, shopping, but here are the highlights of my time in Maui:
Road to Hana
This was one of the main reasons I rented a car, and I’m so glad I did! I followed the advice of the Be My Travel Muse blog’s “Secrets of the Road to Hana in Maui” including the purchase of the Gypsy Guide’s Road to Hana app for $6 knowing there would be little to no cell phone coverage on the eastern side of the island. The app is definitely worth it offering history, culture, and suggested stops along the way (and return route). This can be done in one long day trip if you manage time well or some people stay the night in Hana. As the app will remind you, this trip is not about the destination but rather the journey. Hana itself is a small rather unimpressive town with much of its original character actively fighting the push to become commercialized. The app continues to 2 of the best spots beyond Hana, then the advised route is to return the way you came while some more adventurous folks continue on the poorly maintained roads around the south side despite the possible violation of car rental agreements (mine said nothing about it.) I have a theory that locals just say this to keep some piece of the island to themselves, and I was happy to oblige. The drive was easier than expected despite the 620 curves and 46 one lane bridges. Anyone prone to car sickness should take preventative measures and be sure to bring a charger and auxiliary cord to use the app. I also brought my day pack with water and snacks along with towel, rain jacket, camera, wallet, etc. Many people swim along the way, but I was more hiking focused and dressed accordingly. It will be a little chillier up there than the beach towns of the west coast but I was comfortable in yoga pants and a tank top in early March.
I left Lahaina at 5:30 am to beat the crowds and accomplish the trip in 1 day which was well worth it for the sunrise drive despite some of the early stops being closed. I filled up with gas in Ma’alaea just to be safe as there would not be any options along the RTH (I saw one gas station in Hana many hours into the trip and had used half a tank by the time I was done.) I drove straight through Paia town and bypassed Mama’s Fish House and Ho’okipa lookout having been through the previous day. I arrived at Twin Falls located at mile marker 2 (MM from here on out) to a locked gate stating the hours of 8 am to 3:45 pm (I would return around 5 pm no problem). I knew from my research I was going to skip the Waikamoi Ridge Trail (MM 9.5) and the Garden of Eden Arboretum (MM 10, $15 entry fee) where the opening scene of Jurassic Park was filmed which was closed anyways as I passed by early. It was just prior to here that I happened upon my first waterfall and swimming hole, actually not mentioned in the app, so I stopped in one of the pullouts and jumped out screaming aloud to no one “YES, this is what I came to see!” The app mentioned a waterfall after this point that I did not see where he advises the owner does not like trespassers so maybe this was it? Oops!
I was still one of the only people on the road at this point which made the drive much more pleasant, particularly when approaching the one lane bridges where you must look ahead to determine right of way which is given to the first arrival. I stopped at Kaumahina State Wayside Park (MM 12) for a sunrise snack overlooking the ocean and to use the restroom. After stopping for pics at Honomanu Bay (MM 14), I followed the app‘s option to turn down toward Keanae at MM 16. There’s a free arboretum just before the turn which I skipped (likely closed anyways) followed by beautiful coastal views, taro fields (popular local root vegetable), historic church, and snack shop (still closed at 8 am). After rejoining the main road, Keanae Viewpoint is just ahead with a small parking lot and staircase up to views of the mountains and distant waterfalls and back towards the Keanae farmland and coastline. I breezed through Wailua Valley (MM 18) and onto the Upper Waikani Falls (aka 3 Bears, MM 19) which required parking beyond and walking back down the hill a little bit.
The app mentions skipping Pua’a Kaa State Wayside Park (MM 22), but I’m glad I didn’t. It was around 9 am at this point, and I was starting to see a few more people here. After using the restroom at the parking lot, across the street is a small park with waterfalls and swimming holes (be sure not to miss the one along the roadside before going up the steps into the park). Hanawi Falls is next at MM 24 (not mentioned on app) followed by an optional turn toward Nahiku Landing which was closed when I passed. Around this area I passed the only other car I had been meeting along the stops and asked the couple from San Diego what they were looking at on the right as the coastal views were to the left and my app gave no notifications there. They were just about to enter a 140 foot lave tube and offered for me to join. Not a fan of small dark places nor wanting to impose, I ultimately passed on what was surely a cool adventure. There’s an optional turnoff onto Ula’ino Road at MM 31 with a Lava Tube attraction for $12 and Kahuna Garden for $10 self or $25 guided tours. I regretfully took this turn not realizing the horrible road conditions, distance, and additional cost, but for someone with more time it sounds like a fun side trip.
Wai’anapanapa State Park at MM 32 was my favorite stop of the day, and one that I definitely took time to explore as it is home to Pa’iloa Black Sand Beach, Pukaula Point hike, and the Sea Caves loop trail (currently closed!). The park is free which is even better and offers camping ($18) and cabin rentals ($90/nt). I arrived here around 10 am to a small crowd but still far ahead of the tour buses. I was blown away by the beauty of the rugged yet fertile coastline. There are only 3 colors here in sharp contrast: black rock, aqua blue water, and green plant-life, and the combination is magnificent. A few folks were playing or relaxing on the black sand beach, but I continued past to the Pukaula Point trail for more spectacular views around each turn. I spent about an hour here, finishing up by ducking into a small sea cave tunnel off the beach, but passing on the additional sites such as the sea arch, blowhole, lava tube, and temple to get back on the road.
The drive continued into Hana with optional detours down to Hana Bay, Koki Beach, and Hamoa Beach. I didn’t stop but saw many cars starting to pile up along the street, and even saw some being ticketed on the way back so be careful! Note after Hana, the mile markers skip a few then start counting backwards. Wailua Falls is next at MM 45, but I just drove by and ended up stopping on the way back though the crowds had grown immensely by that time. My end point was the Ohe’o Gulch (aka Seven Sacred Pools) and Pipiwai Trail in the Kipahula coastal portion of the Haleakala National Park. There is a $25 entry fee which is good for 3 days so be sure to hit this spot and the crater portion within that window.
I arrived around 12:15 pm and stayed about 2.5 hours. There’s a short 0.5 mile Kuloa Point loop trail but sadly the Seven Sacred Pools are no longer open for swimming and the views of them from the point is just okay. The Pipiwai Trail is 2 miles each way out and back leading past the Makahiku Falls, a huge banyan tree, treetop bridges, bamboo forest, and finally the Waimoku Falls. The trail was extremely muddy, sinking deep with each step and adding extra weight to my filthy shoes. The sound of the wind through the bamboo forest was like a hail storm just before hearing the crashing water of the tallest falls in Maui at 400 feet. The final steps to the waterfall are through a stream of running water including a sign to be wary of flash flooding. Unfortunately back at the visitor center, they do not provide any means of washing off the mud, which had splashed up my legs at this point, though the cost of placing signs up telling you not to do so in the bathroom sink likely exceeds that of putting in a hose. They do have a drinking water source (which they suggested I use to wash my shoes!) and a small gift shop (that I couldn’t enter due to being covered in mud!).
From here the app offers one more stop at the Lindbergh grave, but I headed back the way I came to catch the Wailua Falls now crowded at 3 pm. My final stop was the Twin Falls which stated it closed at 3:45 pm, but the lot was still full at 5 pm so I went on in. It was at this point it started to rain, surprisingly the only drops all day just as I was finishing. Had I done the Road to Hana with a tour group rather than on my own, I would have been stuck at sites I did not care to see and rushed through those I did all the while feeling carsick whereas being the driver I felt none of that usual burden. This is why you must rent a car!
Haleakala Crater
The most popular time to visit Haleakala is for sunrise, likely meaning a 2 or 3 am departure depending on where you are staying and a long drive up the volcano in the dark. As this requires a reservation ($1 + the regular $25 entry fee, can be used within 3 days at Kipahula) which is booked out for several weeks and I don’t care for crowds, I decided to flip the script and visit for sunset. Again I used the Gypsy Guide’s Haleakala app ($4) but it really wasn’t as necessary as it was for the RTH. I started out at 9 am and took a detour from the app in Kula to visit more of the Upcountry and time my summit with the sunset.
With amazing views along the way, I reached the Kula Botanical Garden around 10 am paying the $10 admission to tour the small gardens. Next I tried to see the nearby O’O Farm as it was mentioned as the source of the farm to table restaurants I had seen, but access and tours are by reservation only. My next stop was to the Ali’i Kula Lavender Farm ($3 self, $12 guided) where I spent an hour walking the grounds, enjoying the views, sampling the products in the gift shop, and sipping some lavender tea. Continuing through the scenic upcountry, I stopped at Sun Yet Sen Park and Lookout, one of the many beautiful surprises along the roadside. I arrived at Maui Wine around 12:45 pm and did one of their 3 tasting options ($10) while awaiting the highly recommended 1:30 pm free tour of the property (30 min). The Ulapalakua Ranch Grill across the street is a great spot to fill your tummy so you’re not tipsy on the volcano drive. I unadvisedly skipped this and headed back towards the route up the mountain.
This drive was much more terrifying than the RTH as the steep road winds through the clouds and appears to drop off into oblivion around each curve. I watched the temperature gauge drop as the elevation climbed eventually to 10,000 feet with the blanket of clouds far below. I made it to the top around 3:30 pm where the temperature was 52 degrees Fahrenheit under a blazing sun. Words cannot describe the feeling of seeing the crater as I had not done much research so had no expectations. It was out of this world, really like seeing the surface of another planet. I was practically skipping along the Sliding Sands Trail, greeting the few people I passed with mutual joy and awe. The trail goes on for 10 miles before connecting with the 10 mile Halemauu Trail and 8.3 mile Kaupo Gap Trail which converge at the Paliku cabin and campsite. Your eyes will be fooled by the vast landscape, seeing the trail as rather flat when a look behind you will confirm there is definitely a steep grade going down into the crater. As such, I only went about 30 min in to the first big curve remaining mindful of the steep return climb and upcoming sunset.
It was about 5 pm when I returned to my car and drove the short distance to the summit lookout where the observatory resides (not accessible to the public.) On the way down, I followed the app to a few more stops including the Kalahaku and Leleiwi Overlooks. I was back down at cloud level as the sunset began glowing bright orange at 6:15 pm and through them to watch its final descent into the Pacific Ocean at 6:30 pm. The app suggests a detour at Makawao, a small Hawaiian cowboy (paniolo) town turned art community. It was dark at this point, but this quaint town appeared like a great place to spend an afternoon browsing the shops. I finished my day here with a hard-earned meal at Polli’s Mexican Restaurant before driving back to Lahaina.
Iao Valley
After a relaxing morning in sunny Lahaina, I drove to the recently re-opened Iao Valley State Monument about 40 minutes away to cool off in the rain forest. There’s a $5 parking fee, and don’t be amongst the assholes who park before the gate to avoid supporting the state park. The official trail is a 0.6 mile paved walkway to view the 1200 foot Iao Needle, a volcanic core now covered in vegetation which holds historic significance to the Hawaiians. From the lookout, there is a well-known 2 mile out and back trail beyond the “don’t go past this point” sign which I traveled a short distance on. Being as I was alone in one of the wettest places on earth, the slippery steep trail reminded me that sign was placed there for a reason so I turned back. There are many other similar signs with paths and people beyond, but remember the area has suffered much flash flooding leading to evacuations and park closures. Just down the road I stopped at the Kepaniwai Park Heritage Gardens, a free walking and picnicking area honoring the Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and Filipino immigrants to Hawaii.
Beaches
All beaches in Maui are public property and considered state parks. As such, no resort will have their own beach nor will there be any typical amenities such beach chairs or fruity drinks on demand. I call it BYOE-bring your own everything. There is usually a bathroom (or just a port-a-potty) and maybe some picnic tables, sometimes a lifeguard. Parking is always free but fills up quickly spilling out into the streets so watch for no parking signs. Many allow camping with a permit. People smarter than me brought binoculars and could frequently spot whales in the distance directly from the beaches. A few I liked were Baby Beach and Launiupoko Beach Park in Lahaina for small crowds. Big Beach at Makena State Park in Wailea was a popular spot despite the lifeguards’ megaphone warning of dangerous surf. It’s big (hence the name) so it doesn’t feel crowded, and I used the third entrance to parking closer to the beach and the secret cove at Pa’ako Beach at the south end. At the north end, there’s a path over the rocks to Little Beach where clothing is optional, which makes me wonder where it got its name ;) When walking the Kapalua Coastal Trail, I began at DT Fleming Beach which I liked much better than the small and crowded Kapalua Beach and Napili Beach. My hostel was right next to Kamehameha Iki Park in Lahaina and the beach there was lovely for a sunrise or sunset stroll, and even the ability to spy on the Feast at Lele luau, but as someone who paid $135 it’s very annoying to see spectators lurking for free.
Where to eat:
-Pacific’o: a farm to table beachfront restaurant in Lahaina neighboring the Feast at Lele Luau, ie you will hear the whole thing
-Fleetwoods: dine on the quiet rooftop of Mick’s Fleetwood’s American grill or enjoy the daily sunset ceremonies in Lahaina
-Cool Cats: open air, live music, 2nd floor burger and shake shop overlooking Front Street in Lahaina offers a veggie burger and gluten free bun
-Polli’s Mexican Restaurant: local dive in the Hawaiian cowboy town of Makawao specializing in their own texturized vegetable protein ground beef substitute
-The Mill House: farm to table dining experience overlooking Maui Plantation
-Betty’s Beach Café: enjoy a casual beachfront breakfast in Lahaina
-Cheeseburger in Paradise: offers breakfast and mimosa/bloody mary specials upstairs along with ocean views in Lahaina
There are just a few things I would do differently or not at all:
-Snorkeling: I went on a Sunday special Molokini Crater snorkeling trip with Boss Frog's on the large Malolo catamaran out of Ma’alaea Harbor for $68. This like most of the trips was early in the morning offering a nice sunrise but still chilly out. Check-in was at 6 am and we returned around noon. This trip only stopped once for a while at Molokini whereas others continue to Turtle Town and/or Coral Gardens. It was slightly confusing to find in the dark, but I was able to ask others about parking which is free up near the shopping center but paid closer to the harbor. These tours are marketed as whale watching as well which luckily we did see, but that is not the focus nor guaranteed. I was able to rent a wetsuit for $10, but couldn’t eat much of the basic provided food due to dietary restrictions. A variety of beverages are available but alcohol is extra and only served after snorkeling. There was also a big push for no solo snorkeling, but I was alone so had no other option and felt like I needed to stay close to the boat rather than explore. The snorkeling area was quite crowded with boats and people too. I was also considering the 11:30 am departure for the same tour on the smaller ‘rigid hulled inflatable’ with Blue Water Rafting for $65. Ultimately, the snorkeling itself was not the greatest I’ve experienced and the temperature was uncomfortable. I would suggest whale watching alone tours which are less expensive or another snorkeling tour that includes more spots.
-Mama’s Fish House: Everyone suggested this place, but with reservations full, I planned to take my chances at lunch and sit at the bar. I skipped the valet parking line and chose a free spot for the beach. Since I was in beach clothing for the day, it was believable when questioned by the attendant who I then asked for directions to the beach. After my diversion, I walked up to the restaurant like I was surprised to find it there and made a bee line past the hostesses for the bar. It was then that I noticed everyone was well dressed and the menu prices reflected that. I was very uncomfortable in my bikini and cover up as I had expected more of a small beachfront dive. I felt like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman shopping on Rodeo Drive in her “working” outfit, though the staff was still kind to me. I ducked right back out before ordering after looking up Paia Fish Market nearby.
-Paia Town: Another failed attempt at lunch in this crowded town with no available parking anywhere after driving around for 30 minutes. Also, it is almost always raining here when I pass through as is common on the north shore in the afternoon. Nearby Ho’okipa Beach was also rainy. Admittedly I was hangry at this point, but not high on my list of places to see. Back to sunny Lahaina for me.
-Whaler’s Village: Upon my return to Lahaina, I searched for the recommended whaling museum which brought me to Whaler’s Village. Not only was the museum closed for renovation, but the expansive outdoor shopping mall with crowded paid parking deck was not at all the authentic experience I was looking for. There was a sign with free activities and events going on here and a shuttle stop from the nearby resorts, but this area felt like Florida not the Hawaiian island I had flown all this way to see.
-Luau: Yes a luau is a necessary tourist activity in Hawaii, and there are 2 well known ones in Lahaina. Old Lahaina Luau ($120) with ground or table seating is more kid friendly, and though that did not interest me, it was booked up anyways. The Feast at Lele ($135) was right next to my guest house, featured food and entertainment from 5 Polynesian nations, and was available on short notice. Though I enjoyed it, I’m not a big enough eater and drinker to validate the cost. I saw signs at the tour desks for much cheaper luaus, but I’m not sure the quality or scam level involved, ie forced timeshare talk.
But back to a more positive note, I absolutely loved this Maui trip and found it to be a very easy solo travel destination. The only question I have is which Hawaiian Island should I visit next??