Bali has been on my bucket list for a while, so when I found a highly recommended surf and yoga retreat near Canggu, I jumped on the chance to spend a week there in May for my 5th solo trip. Most of what I knew about Bali came from Instagram which has had even more influence on tourism there than Elizabeth Gilbert’s “Eat, Pray, Love” did back in 2006. There’s a Bali for everyone from the luxury resorts to the budget hostels, the spiritual center of inland Ubud to the laidback surfer vibe of coastal Canggu. People come to heal, relax, cleanse, hike, work, party, beef up their Instagram or all of the above. I didn’t really go into the week with an agenda or expectations. I trusted that the lush spiritual paradise I’d seen on social media would provide a holiday reflecting the themes of this blog and my personal healing path: travel, mindfulness, and activism. For the most part that was true, but there were also some sides of Bali that didn’t fit the picture perfect image Instagram presents which I want to be forthcoming about.
For me, the week turned out to be about finding balance, whether alternating activity filled days with relaxation and pampering or spending time both alone in nature and amongst the crowds of the towns, beaches, and tourist sites.
I have had success finding yoga retreats at the Book Yoga Retreats website, then I check reviews on Trip Advisor and ultimately book with the retreat directly. That is how I found Pelan Pelan Bali on the southwestern coast of Bali with their raving reviews and multiple packages to choose from even catering to solo travelers. I chose the Yoga Relax Package in a single room for 742 EUR ($829 USD) per week which included 4 yoga sessions, 1 meditation, 3 Balinese massages, 1 hot stone massage, 1 mani or pedi, 1 facial, 2 cooking classes, daily breakfast, M-F lunch, coffee/tea/water, airport pickup, half day trip to local sites, and bicycle/motorbike usage (with proper license). The other options include a surf only package or combo surf and yoga package as well as a 3 person mixed dorm, suite, or family accommodations. This small 8 room retreat really allows you to get to know the other travelers and friendly staff who will greet you by name and welcome you into their family. The rooms are simple yet comfortable, the garden and grounds well kept, and the pool inviting, even if one of the three resident dogs is drinking out of it. The surfers are up early each day so the yoga typically takes place in the afternoons with different instructors and styles including a spiritual vinyasa flow, strengthening workout, slow restorative stretch, wakeup breath work, and chakra cleansing meditation. The spa treatments are outdoors and the modesty scale somewhat below US standards, but the massages were great after all the hiking and yoga. The food is prepared fresh in the open air kitchen, with breakfast per your previous day’s order and family style Indonesian lunches with the other guests. There were a number of other solo travelers during my stay from Australia, England, Holland, and Switzerland, many of which were staying for extended periods. There is one potential drawback in that it is located in the middle of the rice fields with no immediate access to restaurants, shopping, or even the beach, requiring a 20 minute 100K IDR ($7 USD) ride into the nearest town of Canggu. Initially I was quite frustrated with this, but once I ventured out into the busy streets, I could see the appeal of Pelan Pelan’s quiet remote location and the welcome tradeoff of crowing roosters for constantly beeping car horns and buzzing motorbike engines. I would highly recommend Pelan Pelan if you’re looking to get away and relax (or learn to surf) with the ability to get out for activities. In hindsight, I would have rather moved around the island staying in the east and the north a few days each for the less touristy waterfalls, hikes, and temples and allowing for an easy trip to Nusa Penida (skipping Ubud, sorry it’s true, read on!) and finish an active holiday at a relaxing location like Pelan Pelan or one of the many other quiet retreats.
The nearest town of Canggu has lots to offer as a digital nomad hub, coveted surfing spot, and home to top beach resorts and dance clubs. It’s not as popular as nearby Kutu, Uluwatu, or Seminyak, but what it lacks in higher end hotel chains, it makes up for in boutique charm. I’ll admit my first impressions were not great when going to Echo Beach for a sunset dinner. After battling traffic on roadways not intended to handle the growing popularity, I was disappointed that the crowded beach wasn’t particularly pretty. The beach bars were drab concrete huts and there was garbage strewn about, though that didn’t seem to bother the naked local children playing in the river. I did pass by a larger beach club called La Brisa which I heard from a hotel mate was nice, though I found the music too loud as I was hoping for a peaceful evening to write and reflect. The sunset was magical as I enjoyed dinner at Dian Café between the thumping club music of Echo Beach Club and the live acoustic tunes of Cabe Bali (you can guess which side I moved closer to). I had a tough time finding a taxi home in the dark, dodging speeding motorbikes on the sidewalk-less street until a voice called out from an unlabeled stand. Though Echo Beach is touted as one of the best in Canggu, I realized it’s more for the laidback surfers and younger than me beachgoers, so I researched a little more to find a beach experience that better fit my medium maintenance style.
I found that spot in The Lawn, a beach lounge along Canggu’s Batu Bolong Beach with chairs and multi-person day beds available on a first come basis with a minimum purchase ($25 and $70-$100 USD respectively). You could also choose to dine at one of their standard or floor seating tables or enjoy a drink from their sunset deck without a minimum. The food and wine was great, along with the music which was loud but not obnoxious during the day. Service and security were top notch, so I even felt comfortable taking a dip in the infinity pool and leaving my belongings behind, a rarity for a solo traveler. I even ended up back here later in the week partaking in their 2-for-1 cocktails from 8-10 pm and dancing the night away with my group of international hotel mates, noting that no matter where we are from in the world, we all know and like the same music. Other popular hangout spots in Canggu include Old Man’s where the fish sandwich I ordered was terrible and Finn’s Beach Club which looked amazing but with a price tag to match ($40 USD minimum spend for a chair). My fondness for the town grew as the week progressed, especially on my final day where walking along the streets of Canggu, uncrowded for the first time, I could finally appreciate the town’s charm and appeal, and relaxing at Batu Bolong Beach which I definitely preferred to Echo Beach.
Besides hanging at the beach and beach clubs, I got to try out a few more of Canggu’s highlights: shopping, pampering, and eating. Every weekend, there is a covered courtyard bazaar at Love Anchor featuring local artisans and of course some of the standard souvenirs you see everywhere else. Always Always Always bargain here and be ready to walk away, they will likely follow you with a better deal. Other local markets include Samadi every Sunday for organic food and products as well as Old Man’s on the last Saturday of the month for clothing. I did most of my pampering back at my retreat since it was included, but I wanted to try a recommended treatment at Amo Spa, just across from the Love Anchor Market. I enjoyed the 1 hour Loreal Hair Mask for 220K IDR ($18 USD after tax and service fee) in the hip space that was part spa/part cyber lounge. As for food in addition to what I’ve already mentioned, I had a delicious lunch at In The Raw Beach Garden, though it’s a misnomer being down the street from the beach. There are many highly recommended restaurants in Canggu within all budgets (but still relatively cheap even at the nicer places) focusing on locally sourced organic ingredients often with the inclusion of vegan, vegetarian, gluten free, etc items.
Getting around in Canggu and Bali as a whole can be a bit intimidating. First, traffic is nuts with lanes meaning nothing if they’re even labeled at all. Like in many Southeast Asian countries, motorbikes are the most popular mode of transportation as they can and do weave through the traffic. With the proper license (and even without because everything has a price) many tourists rent a scooter, but be mindful that can void your travel insurance policy for good reason. If you’ve never driven one or even driven on the left side of the road, starting here would be a bad idea. They have ridesharing apps such as GoJek and Grab, but apparently the local drivers are so upset at these more reasonably priced options, they have harassed and assaulted the drivers into a state of fear. The preferred method is using local drivers who are supposed to charge a set rate for specific destinations, which most nicer establishments have listed and will call for you. Ask to see this list and do not pay more as they will happily inflate the charge if you are not adamant. For example, the rate from Canggu to Cemagi where I was staying was 120K IDR ($8.50 USD) though I paid both less and more, especially when they pretend to not have any change or increase the price once you’re already in the car. Many hotels such as mine will require you to use their driver or one they arrange for you at a predetermined rate. Though still frowned upon locally, I was able to get a metered Blue Bird taxi which was ordered for me via app and paid less than half of what the set rate was using the local drivers. For longer day trips, many of these local drivers will have business cards so you can arrange for a personal driver. Tipping seems to be optional only rather than expected as in some cultures and small amounts are okay (5% was what was charged at establishments where service fees are included).
It was on these day trips that I had some of my favorite experiences as well some less enjoyable ones, but let’s start with the good news first:
Chasing Waterfalls: I love me some waterfalls of which Bali has many. I started by reading a blog about this Land of Waterfalls, and though it turned out to lack organization or accuracy especially on distances and difficulty, it was a great jumping off point to plan my day. Most waterfalls seemed to be concentrated in the north and the east portions of the island, so I used the article plus Google Maps to create an itinerary about 2 hours north of where I was staying visiting 4 waterfall sites all close to one another: Gitgit, Banya Wana, Pucak Manik, and Banyumala (paying $68 USD for a driver from 7:30 am to 5 pm). I tried to get an early start to beat the heat which only worked for a short while despite the cooler mountainous air. The drive up was beautiful with mountain views overlooking the large Lake Buyan. My driver Putu (www.putuscanggutaxi.com) took care of any parking fees so I’m not aware of those amounts though typically in the couple thousand IDR range so pocket change in USD.
Starting at Gitgit Waterfall, I knew from my research to expect a more touristy site with scammers in the parking lot charging 300K IDR ($20 USD) for entry and a guide though the entrance fee is only 20K IDR ($1.50 USD) and a guide is not necessary. There are many steps down to what you could classify as 4 separate waterfalls in 2 areas. To the left, the falls are more cave-like with a rudimentary bridge leading to a slippery rock embankment and swimming hole beneath the falls. To the right, the larger falls are shamefully blocked by tall flags so that you will pay an extra 100K IDR ($7 USD) to ride the swing or access the heart-shaped ‘selfie’ nest and viewing platform.
Next up, we found Banya Wana Amertha Waterfall (aka Bhuana Sari), and I say found because though my driver had been to Gitgit many times, he was not familiar with any of the others on my itinerary which tells me I made good choices. After paying the 20K IDR ($1.50 USD) entrance fee, my driver joined me to explore the 4 waterfalls in 3 separate areas using the well maintained paths, many many (so freaking many) stairs, and signs indicating approximate times to each. Not only are all the falls gorgeous, but the bright flowers and unique plants add even more beauty to Mother Nature’s canvas. Cute bridges over the streams make for great photos as the pools aren’t the most swimmable here being more shallow and rocky. And luckily there was a sweet lady selling 5K IDR water and other snacks along the way because….stairs! I mention the price because I’ll be charged 8 times this for water the next time I run out on a hike.
The next ridge to the west brought us to Pucak Manik Waterfall where 30K IDR ($2 USD) gave us access to the 3 waterfalls inside as well as a small water bottle. You can see the impressive main falls from the upper path so at least you know all the steps will be worth it. Once at the bottom, the first trickling falls are just a teaser for the next two, a tall stream cascading down a flat slate facade and a monster waterfall crashing into the pool below. And just like the previous stop, there’s next to no one else here in these lesser known falls.
Continuing west and traversing what was the least maintained of the one lane ridge roads, we finished the day at Banyumala Twin Waterfalls. This ended up being the biggest and most beautiful but also the most crowded because we were hitting it later in the day. There’s a parking lot for cars along the road but scooters can get closer to the entrance gate using the path. The entrance fee is 30K IDR ($2 USD) with a small water again, and the overall walk was the least strenuous of the day though that’s not saying much. There was even a couple down there taking formal photos in a suit and gown while I was pouring sweat in my tank top. The large pool at the bottom is perfect for taking a refreshing swim to the base of the falls.
There are many more waterfalls concentrated in this area including the popular but difficult Sekumpul , so it would be worth staying up here rather than taking a day trip. Having seen incredible waterfalls in Costa Rica and Hawaii, I must say Bali is giving them a run for their money. Also nearby is Pura Ulun Danu Buyan, a beautiful temple on the lake, but the crowded parking lot coupled with my shear exhaustion had me passing on this final stop.
Hiking Volcanos: The Mt Batur Volcano Sunrise Trek is a popular Bali excursion, though turns off many with its early start time. In trying to organize this, I found most companies charge double for 1 person through a wide range of prices. Finally I discovered Mt Batur Sunrise Trekking Company which charges $45 USD per person with a minimum of 2 or $70 USD for 1 with a money back guarantee (for comparison my hotel’s recommended company was $60 each for 2 or $120 for just me). Truth be told, it is free to hike up the volcano at any time, but the so called local “mountain mafia” will harass you for not using a guide which their town’s economy relies on. Since I needed the included ride and wasn’t comfortable in the dark by myself, I was happy to pay. My driver picked me up at 1:30 am (yep that’s right) for the approximately 2 hour drive to the northeast corner of the island. We passed heavy security which I think was the mafia, and I was a little nervous as we continued beyond the large parking area into a small village. It was here I met my 17 year old guide Maha and they tried to convince me to rent a fleece jacket for the top as mine was pretty light. Fortunately I made a deal that I would take it but only pay the $5 USD if I wore it, which I stubbornly did not. After receiving a bottled water and a flashlight, we set off at 3:30 am just the 2 of us into the early morning darkness. Despite this I was ripping off layers immediately as the hike went seemingly straight up hill for 5 km (3 miles). There’s a rest stop partway up where you can choose a more difficult but quieter trail (I did not need any more difficulty at this point) or stay on the motorbike path, even hopping on for 300K IDR ($20), the rate decreasing if you changed your mind further up. At my slow pace, a few groups started to catch up to and pass us, and it was then I overheard another guide pointing out the train of flashlights that was the easier but more crowded trail which I assume left from the parking lot I saw on the way in. I was contemplating that money back guarantee right about now, first annoyed by the motorbikes running me off the path with their exhaust in my face then using that as an excuse to stop frequently on the grueling hike. I guzzled the water I brought and what they gave me before reaching the top, surprised she did not have any more for me but that I could buy it from a local kid with a backpack for 40K IDR ($3). We reached the top after an hour and 45 minutes and were amongst the first few there at 5:15 am, an hour before the official sunrise time though the colors were already starting to appear above the twinkling lights of the town far below. This was such a peaceful time sitting alone with my thoughts before the crowds arrived as my guide made breakfast consisting of an egg sandwich, banana sandwich, hardboiled egg, and tea. There are many tiered areas with benches so though it gets more crowded as sunrise approaches, everyone can get a nice view. The unpleasant memories of my hike up completely melted away as the sun rose above the lake, the mountains, and the clouds. Since my hands were numb by this point as it is quite chilly up there, she took me up higher to the volcano’s steam vents to warm up. From there, we walked around the rim of the crater, often on paths no wider than our feet which immediately dropped off into oblivion, sliding along the loose rocks and holding onto each other for dear life. It was amazing, one of the best hiking experiences of my life! I can still see the rolling green hills and smell the charcoal of the lava. At the bottom of the rim trail, there are some monkeys hanging out, but don’t make the mistake I did and bend down for a picture unless you want his friend to jump on your back. Most people don’t take the optional ridge path and just go back down how they came. As we passed the crowds packed in on the more common trail, I was grateful for my path less traveled practically skipping all the way down finally able to see the views and scenery I missed in the dark on the way up. I was back at the car by 8:30 am as my guide headed off to high school!
Ubud Day Trip: After hearing so much about the spiritual heartbeat of the island, I organized a driver to Ubud through my hotel as well as a carefully planned out itinerary using Google Maps that matched my interests and time of day I wanted to be at each site due to popularity, weather, etc. Though my driver didn’t understand my wishes nor follow them, my plan which I still stand by as the best was:
10:00 am depart after morning yoga and breakfast
11:oo am Kanto Lampo Waterfall
12:15 pm Goa Gajah
1:15 pm Saraswati with lunch at Lotus Café
2:15 pm Campuhun Ridge Walk with rest at Karsa Kafe
4:00 Pura Mengering water temple
4:30 Tirtu Empul water temple
5:30 Tegallalang Rice Terrace for 6 pm sunset
I became frustrated when the driver increased the price from $55 USD to $62 USD claiming my locations were further than anticipated, then really lost it when he started going to the places in whatever order he felt like despite my precise planning even after I explicitly asked him not to make any changes. I finally had to give up and go with the flow, chalking it up to a language barrier.
So, we started at Goa Gajah, or Elephant Cave, paying the 50K IDR ($3.50 USD) entrance fee and donning the required sarong I brought though they can be borrowed for free or purchased as a souvenir. Of note, some temples such as this one do not allow women on their menstrual cycle to enter (especially into the water), and though they are obviously not checking I wouldn’t want to disrespect the traditions of a karma based religion. Since I was not on an organized tour, my driver waited outside and I lost a little by not having a guide to explain the history and significance of the sight. That being said, I benefited by getting to move at my own pace and without a crowd. I now know from Google that the mixed Buddhist and Hindu site dates back to the 8th through 11th centuries and was only excavated in the 1900s. The main attraction is an intricately carved cave as well as beautiful gardens on site, definitely worth the stop.
Next we got a little lost trying to find the Kanto Lampo Waterfall, opting to skip the popular and touristy Tegenungan Waterfall nearby. At only 15K IDR ($1 USD) to enter and relatively easy to climb down to, even my driver joined me as he had never been--already a good sign. There were lockers and changing areas at the top as well as unsecured cubbies at the bottom for belongings. I used water shoes which proved helpful on the wet rocks. Only moderately crowded, everyone was clamoring to get their perfect Instagram shot (my driver botched mine), the best of which require getting into the swimming hole. Not ready for that level of commitment, we were through this stop rather quickly and back on schedule.
A short drive back into town, we arrived at Pura Saraswati, a free and uncrowded site with lotus filled ponds leading up to the temple in honor of the goddess of learning, literature, and art. A little out of place, there’s a Starbucks and Lotus Café offering the best views while lunching though I was forced to order the most expensive thing on the menu to meet the credit card minimum requirement of 250K IDR ($18 USD). They have a dinner and traditional dance performance here nightly as well.
After lunch, I walked the 10 minutes to the Campuhan Ridge Walk starting point as the driver couldn’t find parking in the area. This allowed me to see a piece of downtown Ubud at a slower pace made up of closely packed shops and restaurants along the main road with the small hotels off the side streets offering views of the jungle and fields. The walk starts along a path at the Warwick Ibah Hotel and continues about 2.5 km along an easy paved walkway (I had no trouble in flip flops), becoming a road at the end with shops and restaurants, namely the Karsa Kafe. The views were nice, but you’re mostly looking at the backside of hotels, and though it’s a pleasant change of pace from the streets of downtown, I wasn’t as impressed as I’d expected. Perhaps a drink overlooking the fields may have changed my mind…
From here, we drove to the Instagram famous Tegallalang Rice Terraces, a farming area that now caters to tourists. Coming from the parking lot, there is a 10K IDR ($0.70 USD) entrance fee though you could seemingly enter for free from the shop-lined street. Previous reviews actually described it as free with the locals just asking for donations, particularly if they are in a photo you take. At the top, there are a number of swings and nests you can pay to take a picture in (these things are everywhere) before climbing down the slippery wet steps down to the rice terrace. I was okay in flip flops but should have grabbed the water shoes as it is a functioning agricultural area, not just a tourist site. It actually wasn’t too crowded nor was I asked for any donations, but perhaps I didn’t get deep enough into the fields, opting for only a short walk as once you’ve seen it that’s all there is. My driver was with me pointing the way to go, but there were tricky signs saying ‘exit’ that instead lead you into a café.
Our final stops were the water temples further north. On the way, we stopped at one we saw along the road, Gunung Kawi, but didn’t pay the small fee to enter as you could see the grounds from the road. I was even able to go down a staircase up the road from the gate to view a blocked off area, perhaps meant for locals to pray without tourists though there weren’t many. Next we went to the free (because it’s not a tourist site) Pura Mengering. I wore the sarong I had brought but a gentleman gestured to my shoulders likely indicating I should have had them covered. I felt as if I was somewhere I shouldn’t be, but really enjoyed quietly observing the real life daily offering and cleansing rituals of the locals from a respectful distance, careful not to take pictures of anyone in prayer. I would have appreciated it even more had I visited there after the next stop at Tirta Empul with its 50K IDR ($3.50 USD) entrance fee, parking lot full of buses, crowded pools, and endless maze of gift shops you’re required to exit through. Again I had no guide, so I missed the significance at the time, but this 10th century temple built around a curative ‘holy spring’ is a common pilgrimage site for Hindu people to bathe in its waters. The pools are also full of tourists taking the plunge but proper attire must be worn. With some patience and even more luck, I found an empty pool as I was leaving to enjoy without the chaos of the crowds. There are also many other places to visit in and around Ubud that don’t suit my interests or desire to avoid crowded touristy spots such as the Sacred Monkey Forest, Palace, Art Market, the Zoo, and Coffee Plantations (we literally had to stop on the road to let busloads of tourists cross the street to one). Most people stay in Ubud many days or even for extended periods for its spiritual and healing nature, but a day trip was enough for me.
Included Half Day Trip: My retreat offered an included afternoon trip to the Sangeh Monkey Forest, Taman Ayun Temple, and finishing at Tanah Lot for sunset. At the Monkey Forest (50K IDR), the grey long-tailed macaque monkeys will climb on you for peanuts and photos both provided by a local who follows you around for tips. It’s less forest and more stone structures, but an enjoyable little stop though I’m not a huge fan of animals out of their natural habitat. The Taman Ayun Temple and grounds (20K IDR) were very nice, but we had no guidance as to any significance (which as it turns out means ‘beautiful garden’ and was built in the 1600s). We had extra time so our driver made an unscheduled stop at Sari Uma, an organic coffee and tea plantation. We really enjoyed this as it was free and not crowded, offering a short informational tour about the plants and production as well as a tasting of their extensive product line, with the exception of the luwak coffee which could be purchased for 50K IDR/cup. So about this Bali specialty, the luwak is a nocturnal animal that eats the best coffee beans which then ferment in its stomach. Upon leaving the GI tract, someone removes the still shelled beans from the poop to make into a lower acidic coffee. I didn’t try it, but my companions said it was ok, but not enough to purchase the expensive bag to take home. I got some regular Bali coffee, and I am currently sipping their turmeric tea as I write. Finally we reached Tanah Lot (60K IDR), a 16th century Hindu pilgrimage site along the coast which translates to ‘land in the sea.’ The temple lies at the top of a large rock formation accessible only at low tide though you cannot climb up to enter. The adjacent Batu Bolong temple built over an arched land bridge jutting out into the sea is what Tanah Lot is erroneously identified with on Instagram. The area is crowded, especially at sunset, and where there are tourists, there are souvenirs for sale. There’s also a restaurant on site which hosts dinner and traditional dance performances.
My trip to Bali had some great moments, but honestly doesn’t move up to the top of my travel list. This surprised me as always being described in blogs, podcasts, books, and social media as such an amazing place. That is why I was willing to travel halfway across the world (22 hours of flight time), an investment which further raised the bar. Many find a deep spiritual connection here which I just didn’t have, and that’s okay, I’ve had it elsewhere. I didn’t realize my subconscious created unrealistic expectations that weren’t met thanks to the trickery of Instagram. Though it happens all over the island and elsewhere too, @jeffacrosstheworld honestly describes Bali’s most famous shot, The Gate of Heaven: “We waited almost 90 minutes for the pictures, the gate is quite smaller than it appears on camera, and the reflection is done by mirrors.” Instagram also doesn’t show you the insane traffic, dogs living on the streets, poverty that exists outside resort walls, or crowds of tourists vying for the perfect picture. They don’t tell you about the scams and tourist traps, but I will, that’s what I’m here for. As always, I wanted an authentic experience in Bali and I got it, for better or for worse. The trip did allow me to explore the combined aspects of travel, mindfulness, and activism on which this blog was created. On the surface, the act of traveling seems obvious as described extensively above, but it’s getting out of my comfort zone to travel alone and observe other cultures that allows me to grow as a person. I was able to enhance my mindfulness practice, from daily yoga and meditation to the acceptance of cultural differences and necessity to build tourism as a way of life. I reminded myself to stay present and appreciate the opportunity to travel the world while expressing gratitude for the amazing life I have at home. As for activism, I won’t pretend I participated as timing didn’t work out, but I found many weekly beach cleanups in Canggu such as Trash Hero which meets every Sunday at 4:30 pm, Old Man’s every Friday at 4 pm, Canggu Beach Clean Up every Tuesday at 5 pm, and Ocean Mimic Sundays at 5 in Canggu as well as other beaches around Bali—check Facebook to find these events. While I was there, the Bali Hope Team ran 84 km (52 miles) from the north coast of the island to the southwest coast in Canggu, raising money to send kids without access to primary school. Consider joining or supporting them next year (I’ll be sticking with donations on this one). Even though I struggled to know and find what I was looking for in Bali, this small island has proven to be an oasis for those seeking anything from spiritual healing to all night parties and anything in between. My experience in Bali is best summed up by Danielle Orner who reminds us “Life is a balance between what we can control and what we cannot. I am learning to live between effort and surrender.” Namaste.