Welcome back, my friends! If you’ve been following along, you are all caught up on what you should know before you go to Thailand as well as some activity ideas in Bangkok and Chiang Mai. As promised, we will now venture to some beach towns because who doesn’t love the beach?! Back in late August we visited Phuket, Phi Phi Island, and Railay Beach. They didn’t make a movie here called “The Beach” for nothing, so let’s dive in (uh oh beware of puns--swim at your own risk—shit I did it again.)
With the closest airport arrival time in my life thanks to Chiang Mai rush hour—under an hour, totally normal for flights within Thailand-- and a couple luggage and security snafus, we arrived in Phuket (note: Thai Smiles Airlines only allows 20 kg/44 lbs and security is prone to imagining items that resemble cutlery, one way flight $87 USD.) Upon leaving the airport, you will be offered “taxis” by seemingly helpful folks who are just trying to get you on a tour or overpriced shuttle, keep on walking and you will find a handful of metered taxis in a slightly distanced parking lot across the street to the left (the driver greeted us outside the exit). Excited to see the ocean with the palm trees blowing in the wind? Well you’re gonna have to wait for it, as most destinations are an hour from the airport, and your commute will feel like you are back in a big busy city, under constant road construction, with my worst nightmare revealed—roundabouts while traveling in the opposite lane amongst crazy drivers on scooters. Spoiler alert: all went well and we arrived safely at Katathani Beach Resort (www.katathani.com) with views of the sea as we approached over the mountain that is home to the Big Buddah statue. We were very impressed with our service including a welcome bracelet made of flower buds and golf cart shuttle to our junior suite validating the $152 USD/night. This hotel is very family friendly, resembling any typical tourist resort with a number of buildings, pools, restaurants, amenities, and activities including public Thai massage groping in the grass. Wouldn’t choose it again though as a single person or even childless couple. We enjoyed lunch and walking along the beach before getting ready to head out for the night.
Driving in the curvy hilly area of Kata Beach dodging pedestrians and parked cars can leave you dizzy, but being that pedestrian sans sidewalks seemed even more unappealing though there were plenty of shops and restaurants covering every square inch of the island (really a relatively large piece of mainland separated by a strip of water accounting for the lack of island feel.) Any damage from the devastating tsunami 12 years prior was not evident though I felt a sadness knowing most people we met had been affected. We arranged for a prepaid shuttle from the hotel to Patong for the night which leaves at 8:30 pm and picks you up at 11:00 pm, which we potentially planned to miss due to the amazing nightlife we heard this town had to offer. Patong had suffered a small bombing in the weeks before our visit and the weather was a bit rainy, but we did not see what all the hype was about as we walked around looking for a dinner spot. We enjoyed the open air Banana Pub across from the beach with fresh seafood selections on display to complement their traditional Thai menu. It appeared to turn into a lounge and dance club later at night, but unfortunately we would never find out. As we were preparing to search for an after dinner spot, we learned where Monsoon Season gets its name as torrential downpours began resulting in the loss of power over most of the area. Giving up on going out or even waiting for the rain to subside, we ran through the deluge and inches deep water to our shuttle meet up spot just in time to catch a ride back, soaked and shoeless. So much for Patong.
The next day we enjoyed the huge included breakfast buffet before our kayaking tour with John Gray Sea Canoe (www.johngray-seacanoe.com, $113 USD each including transportation, bottled water, 2 meals, and snacks.) We were shuttled to a remote dock where we wisely purchased some adult beverages (if Smirnoff Ice for me counts as being adult), and boarded a large tour boat heading to our 3 dive spots for the day. This was my first view of the impressive limestone islands I would eventually become accustomed to yet always in awe of over the next week. We met our guide Luis who would paddle our bright yellow inflatable kayak through small crevices and caves only passable in certain tides, instructing us to lay down as we squeezed through long dark tunnels reminiscent of an MRI machine, which would open into serene interior lagoons. We quickly learned it was best to jump up and exit the boat quickly as to be the first to arrive in an empty cave and lagoon to enjoy the peaceful sounds of the animals, insects, and water dripping from high above down the rocks before the others arrived. We learned the rocks form at a rate of 1 cm every 100 years and were saddened to see areas broken off by careless people. We were also asked to point out any floating trash left behind from inconsiderate locals and tourists as the area is considered protected national park, even with a small ranger station house within one of the lagoons (how do I get that job?) Prior to our last stop, we learned about the tradition of Loi Krathong, a floating basket offering, and made our own out of a banana tree trunk, banana leaves, orchids, marigolds, and candles. Our masterpiece was then lit in the darkness of our last lagoon (after passing through Bat Cave, yes there were bats) and sent out along with a wish, eventually collected as to not pollute the area. In our final cave, we were able to splash the top of the water and see the bioluminescent plankton light up like little sparks, a beautiful ending to an amazing day (so much so I forgot there were bats in there.)
The next day we awoke to news of an earthquake in nearby Myanmar so I spent my early morning insomnia hours googling tsunamis and emailing Rumblefish Adventure with whom we had booked a dive trip that day only to be assured I was overreacting (www.rumblefishadventure.com, $120 USD for 3 dives with certification, $129 USD for 2 dives as a Discover Scuba student with optional $17 USD 3rd dive and includes transportation, water/meals/snacks, and equipment.) Our group was just my friend and I along with an English ex-pat Cat who was completing her Dive Master training and our instructor Morris from Switzerland, but we joined a large dive boat with many other small groups. Unfortunately I did not have a pleasant morning as the seas were rough and I felt very sick on the ride out, so much so I was not able to listen to instructions (I’m a beginner), and then got myself very nervous having to push through my desire to just quit. This was only my second dive experience, both as a “discover scuba” student, but this time they provided me with a short written test and documentation to count my dives toward certification. The first time in Belize I had to be shoved off the small boat backwards or I would’ve never made it in. This time I was on my own to waddle in my flippers wearing full gear including weight belt to the swim platform to then gracefully disembark with the one leg extended jump (ok, if this stuff has a name it wasn’t covered in my little booklet.) I used a wet suit as did many others, but my friend had no problem without one. We did my skills review in the ocean which I would have failed miserably at had I not learned it a few months prior in a pool, and it was time to dive. Though I initially told the instructor there was no way I would get near my beginner limit of 12 meters/36 feet having gone less than half that the first time with the surface always visible, I immediately got lost in the experience and enjoyed the deeper dive. One other note if you’re used to diving closer to the US, they use BAR to determine tank fullness rather than PSI, but like the rest of the metric system it is much easier and makes way more sense. The first 2 dives were at Racha/Raya Noi followed by one more at Racha/Raya Yai. The first dive was the clearest, the second when I was brave enough to bring my underwater camera was more cloudy, and the third was interesting as it included a purposeful shipwreck and manmade cinderblock structures to encourage growth of the coral reef. Perhaps I was spoiled by diving in Belize, but the Thailand diving was less impressive. We enjoyed a nice but accidentally romantic seaside dinner that night with more extensive wine list at Boathouse Wine and Grill near our hotel, opting for their offer of provided shuttle as walking the streets made me nervous, then called it a night to prepare for travel in the morning. We did not have enough time to visit the Big Buddah and see the island view from the mountain top. We also debated Tiger Kingdom (there’s one in Chiang Mai as well) where you see the common tourist photos petting calm tigers of all sizes. We were limited on time but also questioned the unnatural and possibly inhumane nature of this attraction. Further, we saw more elephant riding going on in this popular tourist area—just say no as it’s harmful to the elephants, please visit a rescue organization in the north instead. Ultimately with the number of activities to do and areas to visit, I would recommend staying more than the 3 nights that we did.
The next morning, we met our arranged transportation to head to Phi Phi Island. I was so very lucky as I unknowingly left my atm card in the machine across from the hotel and it was returned just moments before we left. It’s nice to be in a Buddhist country with karma as a guiding force, though that can’t always be counted on. Our shuttle took us to the beautiful Ao Po Grand Marina where we boarded a comfortable water taxi only to be drenched by the spray on the ride over to Phi Phi Island Village (www.phiphiislandvillage.com, $335 USD/nt for private hillside villa with pool, cheaper options available, transportation extra.) We arrived at low tide requiring us (and our luggage) to board a longtail boat then a “water tractor” to make it to the beach. We were greeted with a flower bracelet, cookies, and bottled water then took a golf cart escort up the hillside to our huge gated 2 room villa with 2 full bathrooms and private pool. We were given a tour because yes it was that big, and instructed not to feed the monkeys. Perhaps my friend and I got the honeymoon suite because much of the resort was being renovated in the off-season, but hey why not enjoy it. The other rooms were smaller individual huts, including some beachfront, at a presumably cheaper rate. We visited the swim up bar by one of the large pools that afternoon and took the advice of a couple from Denver to explore the small village behind the resort and have dinner at Oasis. Otherwise the resort was quite isolated from the rest of the island, requiring longtail boat charter to venture elsewhere which becomes more expensive with less people and later into the night. After a drink at Buffalo Head Bar and shots in honor of honeymooners, we retired back to the villa to fill out our breakfast delivery request.
The next morning as we were enjoying our included room service overlooking the mountains, we heard a scuffling along our roof. From our pool deck we saw a couple small Rhesus Macque monkeys in the trees nearby. Seeming harmless yet directly against hotel staff advice, we left a little plate of fruit for them not realizing their whole family would then suddenly appear out of nowhere. When we counted 15 monkeys at one time lining up to bar us from going back into our villa, we got a little concerned. When we picked up the now empty plate to hide the evidence of any wrongdoing, the biggest alpha male monkey charged at us, sending us running out of the gate to the amusement of the security guards who were just waiting for the dumb American girls to cry for help. After they were chased off, we went into the little village for $9 USD Thai massages. I had not been feeling well the last couple days since diving and being seasick, and after my massage I was totally cured. Best massage of the trip and possibly my life. At the end, my therapist (who happened to be a ladyboy--see the know before you go post), French braided my hair, but all my friend heard was my offering thanks for the “special treat at the end!” This was the first day of the trip with no agenda, tour planned, or traveling to do, so we just relaxed by the main pool for the remainder of the day and met folks at the swim up bar from England, Australia, and New York. We watched the sunset from our villa pool deck over a glass of wine, then headed into the village for dinner and drinks, running into some of our new friends from the pool earlier. The next day we enjoyed the early morning sunshine, but like clockwork, it must rain every two days lest you forget it’s monsoon season. We left via longtail boat to meet the public ferry that would take us to Railay Beach in Krabi, arranged by and paid for at the hotel. We enjoyed our stay on Phi Phi Island, but our resort was too secluded (and expensive), and I would choose a more populated area in the future.
Railay Beach or Bay is split into two sides, East and West, and is only reachable by boat due to the mountains along the backside. The east side is where the dock is located, and restaurants line the walkway where the water meets the sea wall along a forest of mangroves. The west side is more of a beach area with hotels and their eateries along the water. Between the two are paths with more restaurants, shops, and bars taking only 10 minutes or less to walk though you will encounter standing water and mud obstacles. Though a stunningly beautiful coast line with limestone crags and lush green jungle, this was the only place we visited grossly littered with trash. We stayed on the west side at Railay Bay Resort and Spa (www. krabi-railaybay.com, $131 USD/nt for a privacy cottage with hot tub) though saw many other options in the area for much less or even more expensive accommodations. We stayed here 4 nights (too long in my opinion) and really did not do much more than relax due to rain and exhaustion from the previous week of traveling, so rather than my usual play-by-play, I’ll hit up the highlights.
This area is best known for rock climbing, and I’ve found some great posts by other bloggers on that as I did not partake: www.ouradventureyear.wordpress.com/2016/09/07/tonsai-a-climbers-paradise for pros and www.whereintheworldisnina.com/rock-climbing-krabi-tonsai-and-railay for beginners. There are a number of little shops to rent gear, hire a guide, or sign up for lessons. We also saw a lot of people with new tattoos covered by gauze and thought who would get one here in these less than sanitary conditions. We later learned the appeal is that tattoos are created here using the bamboo technique steeped in deep tradition. Through some research (don’t worry, Mom!) I found out they are applied manually using a long bamboo stick with needles on the end and heal completely in 12 hours. Want to combine both climbing and tattooing plus some drinks? They’ve got you covered at Bamboo Bar, a small tiki hut in the west side jungle featuring a tattoo room in the back, ask for Ten Climber as your guide. We also enjoyed the small Jamrock Reggae Bar on the east side for good music, cards and games on the table, and entertaining servers who love the ladies almost as much as they love their weed. There is plenty of cheap Thai food here at places like The Last Bar (also good for muay thai boxing, live music, and a fire show), but getting tired of the Thai food everyday we opted for different options including top tripadvisor pick Kohinoor for Indian food, pizza at Flame Tree, and fine dining and wine at our hotel’s sister property Railay Princess. There are longtail boats for hire to visit other areas like Ao Nang for 200 Baht/$6 USD per person one way, but they will ask you to wait around for 8 total customers, or pay the entire amount of 1600 Baht/$48 USD. Concerned about the ride back and the looming rain clouds, we opted to walk to the adjacent Ton Sai Beach. There’s a treacherous path through the rocks many were using (be careful you can get stuck at high tide), but we were in flip flops, so we attempted to walk there around the mountain using the paths based on the map we’d seen posted around town. Luckily we were informed by a nice lady while seeking shelter from a sudden downpour that we were still about an hour away, so we aborted the mission. The Diamond Cave is back there as well with a small entrance fee. There are other hikes to the Princess cave with penis offerings as well as the Princess lagoon and viewpoint. The Dusty Leaf monkeys in this area are seemingly nicer, though we learned our lesson and didn’t engage them. I was impressed by the number of families traveling with small children despite the rough terrain and remote access, and realized it is merely an American concept to consider exotic travel with children impossible (I don’t have kids but when I see parents traveling with them anywhere I am in complete awe as I can barely get myself places.) This beautiful area definitely has the chill hippie backpacker/adventure seeker vibe, but overall it felt too remote being only accessible by boat and too thinly spread in the off season leaving most bars and restaurants relatively empty. I’m not sure where all the people we saw during the day went at night, but it wasn’t out here, perhaps many are day-trippers which would have been a better option. There are of course many options for cheap Thai massage and day tours, and we easily booked an inexpensive longtail boat and shuttle ride to the airport at an off-site stand rather than through the hotel (400 Baht/$12 each vs 1200 Baht/$36 each.) Then it was back to the crazy driving we had definitely not missed to the Krabi airport to fly back to Bangkok for our last few days ($44 USD on Thai Airways, yep that’s correct.)
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading my Thailand blogs as much as I’ve enjoyed writing them, though both pale in comparison to actually being on this trip of a lifetime. I am so grateful to my friend and travel agent Lindsay at Lotus Travels (www.lindsaylogan.inteletravel.com) for organizing, booking, and accompanying me for 2 and half weeks, not an easy task. If you ever have any questions about Thailand, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I look forward to one day soon visiting more of Southeast Asia including Cambodia, Vietnam, and Bali.