If someone had told me a few years ago I’d take two solo trips to begin and end 2016, I’d say you’re crazy. Having never been to a movie or restaurant alone, how could I possibly spend a week in a foreign country doing everything alone? Little did I know, solo travel is not about being alone, but rather about meeting more people from all over the world than you ever would in your normal life or even when traveling with a companion. It’s also nice to do whatever you want each day without having to consider anyone else. As you meet people along the way, you will have the option to enjoy new friends or take time to be alone, whatever you need in that moment. My first solo travel experience was a sort of hybrid where I went by myself to an isolated yoga retreat in Mexico, but was then introduced to roommates, classmates, tablemates, and activity-mates who would be my new friends for the week (and beyond). I considered doing a similar trip this time around which is how I found Montezuma, Costa Rica, home to Anamaya yoga retreats (www.anamayaresort.com). This place looked wonderful and I knew would resemble my last solo trip with automatic friends and all activities and meals taken care of, but I ultimately decided to stay on my own in Montezuma, closer to the town and the beach with more flexibility. The feeling of discomfort around this decision told me it was the right challenge to take to start the new year.
I stayed in Montezuma for a week, and it was my only destination, whereas many people I met had longer to travel and it was one of many stops on their trip. I thought a week was the perfect amount of time to do everything I wanted to do and still leave time to relax and unwind. It is a very small town with a variety of restaurants and only one nightlife spot all centrally located. That aspect was great for a solo traveler like me as I was continuously running into people I met doing activities that I could then join for dinner and drinks. Everyone was very friendly and usually happy to chat with a lone traveler sipping white wine at the bar. I loved meeting people from all over the world, hopefully changing their minds about the American stereotype (hint: it’s not favorable). This was a great way to get restaurant recommendations, activity ideas, and general knowledge about the area. The small town feel was reminiscent of a college campus where you didn’t know who you’d run into, but there was always a familiar face in the crowd should you want company.
The Costa Rican currency is the colon, or plural colones because you’ll need a lot of them, which exchange at about 550 colones to $1 USD. Most places take USD and determine their own exchange rate, but credit cards are not always accepted or only certain ones, and there is usually an additional fee. There is only one atm in Montezuma which is often broken, empty, or hungry to eat your card so I’d recommend bringing a good bit of cash and note if your accommodations provide a safe so you only have a little on you at a time. Cash is also good for splitting the check at group meals. Of note, a 10% service charge is sometimes added to the bill so be aware before tipping. I exchanged a little in my hometown airport to get started, but it really did not seem necessary and using USD would have been fine to avoid the fees. If you do need more cash and the atm is not working, you will have to take a taxi to the nearest bank in Cabuya.
After much research into Montezuma, I decided to stay at Hotel Los Mangos (www.hotellosmangos.com, $35/night for shared bathroom in main building up to $90/night for private bungalow in peak season). Reviews included many solo female travelers quite fond of Los Mangos and Montezuma as a whole, and I’m so happy to now consider myself one of them. The location was perfect, not directly in town where there were many budget options nor at the more isolated properties out of town or up the steep hills, but rather just a few minutes walk down the well-lit dirt road or along the beach. ATV rentals seemed to be the preferred mode of transportation for those staying further away. Like the reviews I had read, I always felt safe walking around town, and though there is very little crime in this area, you must of course always be alert. For a brief moment, I entertained the idea that I could make this a budget trip having purchased the flight using miles and requested a room in the main building, but alas only the bungalows were available. That worked out just fine for me as I adored my little bungalow which could have slept 2-3 though I was slightly claustrophobic with just one. Without A/C, I was able to point the fan directly at myself and used the 2nd bed to organize all my clothes. I’m the definition of “medium maintenance” if such a thing exists, and my hotel choice suited me quite well. The room setup was very basic but adequate, with one overhead fan and one oscillating floor fan. There was a safe in the small wardrobe, a mini-fridge, and cups for the coffee provided each morning in the reception area. That is also the only place on the property where wifi is available. The room could be a little stuffy and lighting wasn’t great, so I often sat comfortably on my hammock watching the ocean as well as the backpackers who trekked in daily down the dirt road looking for whatever vacancy they could find, it’s that sort of town. Once you accept that you will always be sweaty and dirty in Montezuma, you’re good to go. There are a couple small grocery stores in town to stock your fridge or get any essentials you might have forgotten. I used the water in the hotel to brush my teeth and drank tap water at restaurants without any issues.
Montezuma Yoga (www.montezumayoga.com) has a beautiful open air studio on the Los Mangos property overlooking the pool and ocean with many options from drop-in classes at $14 to retreats that also include surfing, wellness, or Spanish lessons as well as breakfast on the beach at the beautiful Amor de Mar (www.amordemar.com). 90 minute classes are held twice a day at 8:30 am and 6:00 pm with Dagmar, Mirjam, and Sylvia. Mats, blocks, and straps are provided, and the Tuesday evening class is donation only with the proceeds going towards local charitable organizations like the Sea Turtle Conservation (there are also opportunities to volunteer there, www.refugioromelia.com/volunteer-with-us/seaturtle-protection). The most unique class is Sunday evening for a candlelight practice with Hang instrument musical accompaniment. Massages are also available at Montezuma Yoga and Amor de Mar. Not wanting to commit to twice daily yoga, 5 surf lessons, or even breakfast for that matter, I opted to go ala carte as I did not want to feel like I had to do something because I had “paid” for it as well as wanting to experience different yoga studios and restaurants in town.
Somewhere in my pre-trip research, I missed the fact that Montezuma is across from mainland Costa Rica on the Nicoya Peninsula and requires a little bit of effort and time to get to from the San Jose airport. There are many options from the low cost public bus/ferry/bus (<$20), rental car onto Puntarenas-Paquera ferry, or small plane flight to Tambor (~$75) plus taxi to Montezuma. There’s also a speed boat from Jaco to Montezuma for $40 each way in the mornings, but they will drop you off right on the beach so prepare to get a little wet. Staying true to my self-proclaimed medium maintenance status, I booked the Montezuma Expeditions shuttle and ferry option prior to leaving as space is limited (www.montezumaexpeditions.com) for $50 each way which takes about 5 to 6 hours. My biggest concern of the trip was landing in San Jose at 1 pm and getting through customs in time to make the 2 pm shuttle. This turned out to be a breeze, arriving early and getting through swiftly, I was waiting for the shuttle outside by 1:30 pm. This was my first exposure to the Pura Vida lifestyle as the shuttle didn’t arrive until 2:45 pm, but the many taxi and shuttle drivers around were happy to chat and help. I stayed in touch with the company via email using the free wifi of the taxis parked nearby when available so I knew I had not been forgotten. I joined others already on board for the ride to the ferry, and fortunately some were fluent in Spanish and English, as instructions were only given in Spanish. Outside of the taxi drivers, everyone else I encountered spoke English. Our belongings remained locked in the van on board the boat. The ferry ride turned out to be more beautiful and fun than I could have imagined. Food and beverages (including alcohol) are available on board, there’s plenty of seating both inside and out, and the bathrooms are in decent condition. I recommend taking an evening ferry if you can as the sunset was absolutely breathtaking. There was also a live band playing; they may have been fellow travelers on the ferry going to a NYE gig across the water rather than a permanent fixture. We concluded the trip by taking the shuttle a little further then 2 of us were split off into a prepaid taxi for the bumpy ride to Montezuma on the east coast of the peninsula while the others continued to Santa Teresa on the west coast (best for sunsets).
The shuttle ride to the airport at the conclusion of the trip was a little different. I was picked up by a prepaid taxi at 7 am from my hotel and dropped off at the ferry to wait for another shuttle to arrive whose driver would purchase our tickets. Of note while waiting, food and drinks are available for purchase, and they charge to use the bathroom. Unfortunately this time I had to carry my luggage on board the ferry which proved a little difficult and limited where I could sit. Fortunately I ran into someone I had met in Montezuma who could watch my bag when I went to the restroom. I then met a different shuttle on the other side and arrived at the airport around 12:30 pm for a 3:30 pm flight. I’m glad everything went smoothly with transportation, as many things could go wrong to cause delays such as roads or bridges being closed which is common in Costa Rica, so it would be reasonable to consider staying in San Jose for the night and leaving the next day. As for flying out, there is a $29 exit fee which may or may not be included in the cost of your flight. Ask around before waiting in line to pay at the desk located at the far right of the busy and confusing departure terminal. Security took a pretty long while on a peak season Saturday afternoon, but there had been many delays and cancelations in previous days due to volcanic ash. If you’re given a voucher for food due to a delay as I was with Delta, note it is only good in the Food Court as they did not inform me of that.
Before I left for this trip, I booked a couple activities for the beginning of the week, though this could easily have been done there at the many stalls in town which do accept credit cards. They seem to all work together and combine groups, so prices are comparable if not identical. This was a great way to meet people who I would continue to dine with or do other activities with during the week. On my first day, I had signed up for a surf lesson using the instructor mentioned in the yoga retreat reviews, Mauricio with High Tide Surf School. It was $50/lesson compared to $40 or $45 in town with Montezuma Surf and Young Vision respectively, but I would be with the group from Hotel Los Mangos participating in the yoga and surf retreat. This group which would later be dubbed “The Mango Mob” became my regular dinner crew and would continue to grow as new people arrived over the week. Being in average shape, the hike to the surfing beach was brutal though beautiful. We received minimal instruction on the sand which basically consisted of “stand up in the middle of your board” which I was pretty good at on land. Not so much in the water. After the hike and fighting through the waves to get to the appropriate spot, my legs proved to be pretty useless. I stood briefly once and enjoyed a few seated rides on the waves, but ultimately felt frustrated and bruised by the attempts. Though the group continued their lessons and got quite good, that would be my first and last, which worked out just fine so I could do other activities.
The next morning, I had scheduled a Watsu massage with Ana Laura (www.amarahealingtherapiesandwatsu.com), which is a massage in the water, $100 for an hour paid via PayPal prior to the trip. She drove me a short distance to a hidden tide pool amongst the rocks, fed by the ocean with variable depth depending on tides. The location was absolutely magical and the experience truly unique. Though not a massage in the traditional sense which my aching muscles needed, she twirled me through the water allowing the resistance to stretch my limbs. Described as a spiritual experience, it could perhaps be considered too intimate for some. Being in touch with nature through the rocks and water while listening to the sounds of the ocean, I felt very grounded and relaxed. It was a beautiful one-of-a-kind experience, especially learning about the secret tide pool I would revisit during the week, but a little steep at $100. Free tip: the tide pool is straight out from Amor de Mar, it looks like just rocks but hidden behind the tallest ones you’ll find the pool :)
On my third day, I had booked a zip line excursion with Suntrails (www.montezumatraveladventures.com, $45) though I had trouble with their website and paid on arrival. They have a 9 am, 1 pm, and 3 pm trip with transportation only provided for the first and last. Not wanting to interfere with morning or afternoon yoga, I selected 1 pm and chose to walk the 1.5 km/1 mile. This turned out to be a big mistake as it’s a very steep incline during the hottest part of the day. I allowed time to stop halfway at the Butterfly Garden (www.montezumagardens.com, $6 entry fee), also home to the highly recommended Cocina Clandestina restaurant which doesn’t open until noon so I wasn’t able to enjoy it. There I was taken on a brief tour of the small garden and lab, learning all kinds of butterfly facts, and then allowed to browse at my leisure. I made it uphill to the zip lining location a little early, so I walked along a portion of their designated trail which included suspension bridges and information placards. Signs indicated that there is a fee to use this private trail (didn’t see anything else about that nor did I pay it) which takes you along the river ending at the waterfalls. The ziplining was good but not great, and there were some difficult uphill hikes along the way. There was only one glimpse of the ocean and not many animals around that time of day. About halfway through the 9 cables, they took us down to the top of the 3rd waterfall, but you can only get to the swimming hole by jumping off the cliff or daring a treacherous climb. Bottom line, there are much better zip lining spots in Costa Rica, but I would recommend their trail to see the 3rd waterfall by coming down from the top rather than the difficult climb up from the bottom.
That afternoon, I booked snorkeling and horseback riding at the Eco Tours stall in town after hearing good things from people who had gone. The next day I met back there at 9 am for the snorkeling tour ($45) which included a 45 min boat ride to Tortuga Island, stopping to see the El Chorro Waterfall and Rainbow Rock along the way, 2 snorkeling spots for 30-45 minutes each (or optional scuba), lunch with drinks, and some time to hang at the beach with a number of other boat groups. I got really lucky and had a super fun group on my boat. The snorkeling was actually pretty decent, and I even saw a huge reef shark known to live in that area. The lunch included fresh sliced fruit, a chicken, fish, or vegetarian option with rice, and water, tea, and beer. There’s also a bar and shop on the island, as well as a restroom which charges a fee (tip: the ocean is free). You can rest in a lounge chair, play a game of beach volleyball, or find the hiking trail for a nominal fee. The boat returns to Montezuma around 4 pm. Your group will never be as awesome as mine was, but I still highly recommend this tour for a full day of fun.
The following morning, I booked a horseback riding tour ($40). They suggest pants and tennis shoes, and a bathing suit is optional for the waterfall. We were a small group who rode along the beach and through the jungle about an hour and a half to reach El Chorro Waterall, the one we had seen from the boat and learned it’s the only waterfall on mainland Costa Rica that flows directly into the ocean. After a brief climb, reaching the cool water was quite refreshing. We enjoyed some fresh cut pineapple and headed back to Montezuma, arriving around 1 pm. This was an enjoyable experience but left me quite sore for a few days.
On my last day, I finally made it to the famous Montezuma Falls. There’s a little hiking trail just past the small bridge heading south out of town. The actual trail doesn’t last long, and you’ll be walking in running water over rocks. I was lucky to run into one of the girls from snorkeling, so we helped each other navigate the difficult trek. There seemed to be two ways to get there, by going up through the jungle on a steep trail or what we selected which was to stay along the river. It was a hot and brutal hike though we were partially shaded in the mid-morning. Just when we thought we’d never get there (maybe 20 minutes from the onset), the huge waterfall appeared like an oasis. The water was actually too freezing for me to enjoy, but there were many people around jumping off the rocks or just hanging out. There’s another steep climb up to the next waterfall, but I believe it was the one I saw from the zip line tour and didn’t want to further risk becoming one of the many visitors who injures themselves out there.
Afterwards, I walked down the beach to Ylang Ylang Beach Resort (www.ylangylangbeachresort.com) for lunch before my scheduled massage ($80 for 1 hour) which I had booked in town at their sister property El Sano Banano. Though a little more than the average massage I found elsewhere ($65 for 1 hour), it was well worth it for the peaceful ambiance within the large private cabana surrounded by the sounds of the ocean and jungle. They have 90 minute yoga classes twice a day at 8:15 am and 4:30 pm for $14 in an open air studio overlooking the beach, though right above the noisy kitchen and restaurant. Definitely worth a visit to this gorgeous property for some pampering though it’s far from town and reachable only via the beach.
The food in town was delicious but the service leaves a little to be desired in many places. The restaurants are all quite small and can have a wait on busy nights. Be aware that some are cash only, but many offer free wifi. The best meal I had was tuna lasagna at Playa de los Artistas on the beach across from Hotel Los Mangos just south of town. Their menu changes daily and there are so many delicious options, we actually went there twice. It’s a little pricey and cash only but well worth it. Another favorite was Puggo’s for Mediterranean fare, but as they were out of the falafel hummus I wanted the first time, I went there twice as well. There is also a little sushi cart on site with a separate menu, and for my meal I got sushi both times, same exact Golden Roll it was so good. We enjoyed dinner and live music at Organico one night, the pizza was great but the fish dinner was nothing special. Cococolores is also another favorite for pasta, but I went with the veggie tacos there. Breakfast at Amor de Mar was amazing, and I enjoyed lunch at El Sano Banano, Bar Restaurante Moctezuma, Organico, and Ylang Ylang Beach Resort. The mint Oreo gelato at Ice Dream hit the spot on a hot day. The nightlife spot is Chico’s Bar, fun for dancing to live reggae or the DJ.
Overall, it’s a pretty chill town with hippies selling jewelry along the street, friendly dogs playing on the beach before going home each night, and the laidback vibe of international travelers experiencing the best life has to offer—Pura Vida! Though I loved the beauty of the beach and coastline, the activities and food, and taking time to relax and reflect, my favorite part of the trip was meeting so many wonderful people from around the world who enjoy traveling as I do. Unfortunately we do not take the opportunities in our regular lives to greet the stranger next to us, to learn about who they are and where they’re from, to enjoy dinner with a table of new friends and feel a bond over your shared experiences. I will always remember my Russian Canadian shuttle and ferry pal, the nice couple from Australia who included me on my first night, the always evolving “Mango Mob” supper club mostly from Europe, and Team North America--the best damn beach volleyball team Tortuga Island has ever seen!
