That Peloponnesus Life

“Happy is the man, I thought, who before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean Sea.” Nikos Kazantzakis in Zorba the Greek certainly meant this to include women too, so off I went to Greece to fulfill a longtime travel dream of mine! My 2 week holiday started with a week on the Peloponnesus as outlined here followed by a week in Santorini and Ios which I’ll share in my next blog. Be sure to checkout my last blog, “It’s All Greek to Me,” for general travel tips to consider before visiting Greece.

It was a cold day in February when I happened upon a Facebook post sharing this video of Galatas on the Peloponnese and the nearby Saronic Island of Poros created by the team at Live-Bio. I know this because I saved it, and by April I had booked a stay for the last week of August. Though they offer a weekend package (450-500 EUR) or room only with optional excursions and/or meals (55-75 EUR/nt), I selected the week package which includes 7 nights with breakfast, 6 dinners (3 local tavernas, 2 home cooked, and 1 cooking class), 3 yoga sessions, a day of sailing, volcano hike or wine tasting (I chose both!), Poros Island historical walking tour, local area hike, cycling tour, and signature jumping photo shoot. I also loved how their website www.live-bio.net listed the package pricing, 1000 EUR for 1 person or 1350 EUR for 2 (this is an amazing deal by the way!), rather than the slippery way of advertising a per person price based on double occupancy then the abhorrent single supplement, a big middle finger to the solo traveler. I was looking for a busy and active week before moving on to see more places, but Live-Bio is likewise well suited for a shorter relaxing holiday and even long term independent stay.

Getting there is very easy, and I selected an Air Canada flight via Toronto to Athens (AC Rouge left a little to be desired but the Toronto airport was quite impressive) as it arrived at 9 am so I could get to my destination straight away with daylight remaining to enjoy. Reaching Live-Bio can be done by land (about 2.5 hours from Athens) or by sea (1 hour ferry from Pireaus Port). I opted for the ferry and booked ahead using www.greeka.com to find the schedule then booking directly with Hellenic Seaways. Be sure to use POROS NOT PAROS ISLAND when booking, common mistake! I took the X96 bus from the airport for 6 EUR (taxi, Uber, and metro are alternates) which departs about every 20 minutes and can be found by exiting the arrivals area and going right to the end of the sidewalk where you will find the ticket booth. The approximately hour long bus ride on a Saturday had me there well before my scheduled 1:00 pm ferry. Gate E8 is the most common for passenger ferries and is located just across the street from the bus stop. Just don’t do what I did which is follow the signs meant for the cars on foot, walking in unnecessary loops when I just could have walked right through the gate! I found the Hellenic Seaways kiosk to ask where to wait and board, and they exchanged my paperwork printed at home for a boarding pass for all of my future ferry trips (which I did at the SeaJets kiosk as well). One tip from the locals, Hellenic Seaways’ FlyingCat is preffered to the older and smaller Flying Dolphin which I took assuming the smell of exhaust was just a normal part of the ferry experience. There is an attempt to separate the Poros luggage from that of the passengers continuing on to Hydra though the process was still a bit chaotic. My Live-Bio host Magdalena met me at the port in Poros, and though short, the 1 EUR water taxi ride back to Galatas was a perfect welcome to the beauty, calm, and kindness that would be my next 7 days.

After stopping at the market for bottled water at a surprising 1.5 EUR for six 1.5 L bottles (this area is significantly less expensive than the more touristy areas I would learn), we drove through the waterfront village of Galatas and along the curvy coastline up the hill to Live-Bio; no spectacular view without a hill right. I was beyond impressed by my personalized welcome and the large beautifully decorated apartment with small kitchenette, eating area, sitting area, queen sized bed, double vanity, rainfall shower, and balcony seating with the most breathtaking views of Poros Island and the other small uninhabited islands dotting the Aegean Sea’s Saronic Gulf. I slept most nights with the A/C off and the balcony door open enjoying the breeze and quiet sounds of nature. The room included a stocked fridge of local wines for purchase from the Namea wine region and handmade organic bath products for sale from Olive Lab, both of which I visited in person. There was a television and many books available as well as a yoga mat and free wifi, and it’s a shame I was almost never in this gorgeous room to enjoy it. The welcome packet will guide you to the best restaurants, provide info on the local beaches, and list the many activities to partake in around town. The newest additions to the property include a pool deck overlooking the sea and an outdoor pizza oven you will hopefully be able to enjoy. With only 5 apartments in 3 buildings and the owners living on site, you will feel more like a guest in the home of friends rather than just a customer. Periklis and Magdalena will make you feel included along with the other guests and their local and visiting friends for dinners out and at home. As a solo traveler, this was a perfect way to meet people, learn about so many different cultures, and feel safe being alone in a foreign country. If you don’t believe me, you can read more about other guests’ experiences here (www.live-bio.net/live-bio-family), and you can learn more about the local people you may meet in the area here (www.live-bio.net/humans-of-poros).

After settling in, Magdalena took me to the local hidden beach past Aliki beach for a sunset yoga session. I was surprised to learn no other guests were currently participating in the week package so it was often just me with one or both of the hosts, quite a personalized experience. That night we dined al fresco at the fabulous Taverna Rota on Poros just across from the taxi boats (Greeks dine on the later side). We were fortunate to run into her friends from France now living on Poros and designing underwater art installations (www.forlane6studio.com) with their visiting family, and suddenly we were a table of six. This is the perfect way to share a number of Greek dishes, delicious inexpensive table wine, and excellent conversation. We had more plates going around the table than I can count, but I tried local specialties including octopus and anchovies, fava and spanakopita, and their signature dessert which was my absolute favorite thing I ate the whole trip. Too busy talking and eating, we discussed the plan for the week’s activities the next morning over coffee at LaFrianderie’s waterfront tables (www.lafrianderie.gr) which would begin the following day and continue to be in flux as conditions warranted like weather or coordinating with other guests. And let me not forget the huge delicious breakfast in bed delivery which included fresh fruit, sheep’s milk yogurt (the best!), pastry, bread, cheese, and homemade lemonade. I had to ask them to skip some mornings as there was so much food left over despite taking it along for my daily activities.

With Magdalena’s guidance, I spent my first full day on Poros Island, hopping on the larger ferry which was closer to the coffee shop and also closer to the beaches I would be walking to on the other side. Taking a left on the main road and following along the coast, I continued to be in awe of the views, stopping constantly for pictures and to take in the moment. I may or may not have accidentally photographed the active naval base along this route before seeing the sign that prohibits photography (in my defense, it’s written in every language but English). The owner of the White Cat offered me a local map after mistaking me for Greek (the ultimate compliment!) as I was admiring his octopus hanging out to dry, and I would stop back in later for a drink along the water (1.5 EUR for a glass of wine). My goal was to reach Love Bay, and I mistakenly thought I had arrived there only to learn the first organized beach with chairs for rent was Mikro Neorio. There’s a nice spot to sit on the rocks under the shade of the pines just before the beach. Up the hill and back down again, there’s a larger beach Megalo Neorio with many waterfront restaurants to choose from. Over the next big hill I finally reached Love Bay, only to find it overrun with partygoers on the island with Yacht Week, a weeklong yacht rental that usually starts in Athens on Saturdays and reaches Poros on Sundays. Over the next hill is Russian Bay which I would visit a few days later on bike. It’s hard to say how long this walk would take without stopping as frequently as I did, but it’s easily 45 minutes with some tough hills but definitely worth it for the breathtaking views and glimpses into real Greek island life. We topped off the evening with a lovely dinner party consisting of Magdalena’s home cooking and Periklis’ fresh baked pizza.

On Monday, we started the day with a hike behind the Live-Bio property going way up into the hills. There is a spattering of homes, and a church of course, along with trees growing olives, pomegranates, figs, lemon, and pears. As we climbed toward the windmills, the landscape changed to much more lush and green with stone terraces appearing for erosion control. Magdalena described the area in the springtime with wild lavender and colorful poppies, but that also the fall would bring a second blooming of its own, and that those truly were the best times to visit.

That evening, I would go over to Poros for a cooking class at Odyssey Bistro, a quaint restaurant where outdoor seating is among the fresh herbs used in the recipes. There’s even a rooftop vegetable garden, comfortable reading nook, and attached hotel. Owner Katerina was smoking some fish using wood chips soaked in ouzo while we waited to be joined by Marsha, a guest staying for a weeklong cooking school. After picking our herbs and vegetables on the property, we began chopping and chopping and chopping some more. Then the anchovies needed to be prepared as they weren’t going to rip their own heads off, before being covered in lemon juice, olive oil, and herbs. One of my favorite recipes was for a Greek pie made from layered potatoes, goat cheese with herbs, tomatoes, zucchini, and cheese on top. We wasted nothing as the goat cheese mixture was rolled in phyllo dough to be baked. We created a fresh salad from the garden as well as orzo with prawns and two kinds of fish. Fortunately Magdalena and their friend Maria joined us to eat this large spread. We had a local ‘retsina’ wine which is an ancient way of sealing wine containers with pine resin to prevent oxidation but remains popular today due to the flavor. And no dinner is complete without dessert (we had lemon mousse) and small glass of sweet spirits. I left with a full stomach, great memories, official diploma, and recipe book; more recipes can be found on the Odyssey Bistro blog at www.katerinaskouzina.com.

The following day I went sailing with my hosts on Periklis’ sail boat. It was a very calm morning as we trolled over to the Monastiri Beach area of Poros Island, below the historical Holy Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi founded in 1720. It took a few tries to find an unoccupied cove to drop anchor for swimming, and even then we had a few more boats join us as it was such a beautiful day. Because of the rocky shoreline, the water is crystal clear, and the Aegean Sea does not experience perceptible tides. The salinity of the water was noticeably greater than what I am used to leaving a layer of salt on my skin and hair. We were able to use the sail with increasing afternoon winds to head over to the other side of Poros, settling into a large cove known for nude sunbathing though did not partake. With a number of boats around, it was still so calm and quiet, you could hear the symphony of cicadas amongst the pine trees, the sound of summer which I would miss in my next Greek Island travels with less vegetation. I was able to learn the terminology of the boat’s parts and sailing techniques as well as help in raising the sails and steering the motor. The boat traffic was picking up as we were heading back through the main port of Poros, a popular spot to enjoy sunset drinks on the boat before dinner on the island. I learned about Laskarina Bouboulina, the female naval commander and women’s advocate who secretly built a war ship having a significant role in the Greek War of Independence from Turkish rule in 1821. On the day I leave there will be an Armada Festival on Spetses Island to commemorate the September 8th 1822 naval battle culminating in the burning of a model ship and a grand fireworks display. That evening, Magdalena led our yoga session by the Live-Bio pool followed by dinner at Babis Taverna in Galatas.

On Wednesday, we pumped up the bike tires and took the large ferry over to Poros Island for a morning ride. We rode to the left (northwest of the port) retracing my previous steps to Love Bay then beyond to Russian Bay where the ruins of an 1800s naval base remain on the beach. There’s now a small kantina and beach chairs out front, and a large stage remained from a recent outdoor concert that could be enjoyed from the bay. We then rode to the other side of Poros to have lunch at Odyssey Bistro, passing the world’s most scenic gas station and Askeli Beach. After lunch, I walked up to the Monastery though I knew it would be closed for the afternoon. If you are able to get there during visiting hours (7:30 am to 1 pm, 4 pm to sunset), proper clothing is required and shawls are provided. There’s a small café up there with cats lounging around as well as a small church outside the monastery gates you can visit. Much further up the hill lie the Temple of Poseidon ruins dating back to the 6th century, but I did not feel I could walk that distance and steep grade.

That evening I met Periklis back in the main town to learn more about the history of Poros Town as we walked along the small pathways of the typical Greek hillside village. Actually two islands connected by a bridge, Poros dates back to the Early Bronze Period gaining power during the Mycenaean phase (1400-1100 BC) with its landscape changing in 258 BC due to the Methana volcano’s last eruption. Occupied by many over time from the Romans to the Venetians to the Ottomans (Turkey not furniture), Poros and Greece fought for their freedom in 1821. The main village has also seen a change with the original waterfront area being considered unsafe in the case of an attack and only inhabited by fisherman while the nicer homes and center of village life were further up the hill. Now those restaurants, shops, and churches have fallen out of popularity as the marina brings in the regular visitors and the harborside tavernas flourish. The township itself is difficult to navigate as the paths are purposely confusing to evade would-be attackers, lacking any street names or addresses requiring the use of PO Boxes. The architecture exemplifies both classic Greek design with the white (historically asbestos) walls, flat roofs, and small windows to remain cool and the more ornate Neoclassical elements. Amongst the nicer homes is a noted artist residence where British painters John Craxton and Lucian Freud (grandson of Sigmund) lived and worked in the 1940s. You can’t miss the town’s hilltop clock tower, even more beautiful lit up at night, and worth the climb to see the 360 degree views from the 1920s landmark with visible working mechanism from the Philadelphia Company. We walked through the old town noting the main church Ekklisia Panagitsa unique for its more elaborate paintings than is typical of Greek Orthodox churches, historic and currently functioning water towers, and homes so small and close we could hear and see the people going about their daily activities through open doors and windows. We hiked further out of town where the houses became more sparse up to Saint Athanassios Church for views of Poros Town often depicted in paintings. Finally on the way back to the water taxi, we had to stop for gelato at Red Doors leaving room for a homecooked meal with the guests back at Live-Bio.

Thursday was another activity packed day as I was joined by 2 other guests to visit the Peloponnesus wine region of Namea, originally called St George but renamed by the Turks; the grape of the region still retains the name St George or Agiorgitiko. We had a beautiful 1.5 hour scenic drive along the curvy coastal mountain roads; it was like the California coast on crack. Anyone prone to carsickness may need to take precautions. Our first stop was Domaine Skouras where we had a private tour, lesson, and tasting with Dimitri. For 9 EUR we tasted 6 glasses of wine while learning about the region which has been making wine for 3000 years using grapes harvested at different times depending on the altitude which ranges up to 1 km in the highlands. Skouras is very proud of their 2013 designation as Best Syrah du Monde for their 2011 vintage. Their whites, roses, and reds are bottled on site once the order is placed as different countries have different labels (Zoe can be found in the US). Prior to bottling, the wines are aged in their stainless steel tanks or 1000 oak barrel cellar. More information on Domaine Skouras can be found at www.skouras.gr. Our next stop was the smaller Palivou Estate with outdoor seating areas and grapevine covered canopy overlooking the vineyard. We were able to choose the wines we wanted to taste then visited the small barrel room, and were lucky to have the tasting fee waived. Additional information on Palivou Estate can be found at www.palivos.gr. Both wineries were preparing for large groups that afternoon (a hint to go earlier in the morning) as well as big parties that weekend for the peak of harvest season around the first of September. Notably both winemakers we visited here in ‘St George’ are named George, George Skouras and George Palivos, as Greek people are often named for saints and ‘Giorgos’ being one of the most popular names.

Though we drove through nearby Argos, the longest known continually inhabited city for the past 7000 years, we did not have time to visit the beautiful city of Nafplio, the original capital of Greece before Athens, or Mycenae where you can find the Tiryns UNESCO World Heritage Site. We headed instead to the ancient Epidaurus Theatre, the region’s other UNESCO World Heritage Site, excavated in 1881 (12 EUR adults, 6 EUR students/seniors). The 4th century BC theatre seats 15,000 people and still holds plays today, notably during the Athens and Epidaurus Festival which runs June through mid-August. I tested out the incredible acoustics by standing in the center and quietly saying the names of the girls I was with who had climbed to the top and watched them jump as if I was standing right behind them. There was even a 2007 study on the acoustics here by my hometown university Georgia Tech. Also discovered on site is the ancient healing center of Asklepios, named for the god of medicine, and recognized as the earliest organized sanatorium. Reading the signage, you get a very cult-like feel for the ceremonies of healing performed at that time amongst the many temples, monuments, buildings, and athletic fields that have been uncovered. Statues and artifacts have been moved to the small museum on site. On the way back we stopped above the modern city of Epidaurus to admire the view of the beautiful town with its orange groves and calm seas as well as yet another newly discovered ancient theater. We passed some white flamingos on our way to a small secret beach known only to the locals to enjoy our last moments of the day and views of Methana where we will visit the following day. Dinner was on Poros at Apagio along with newly arrived Swedish guests to share many delicious traditional plates, topped off with an impressive dessert spread and sweet red wine mixed with geranium leaves and sugar.

My last full day started with a Live-Bio jumping photo shoot, and then we were off to Methana about 30 minutes away where local chefs come to collect fresh oregano. Formed by a volcano, the area appears to be an island but is actually a peninsula connected to the mainland by a small strip of land. The volcano which we hiked is still considered active though it has not erupted since 258 BC (1700 below the water) and is made up of red rocks that differ vastly from the terrain around it. The views from up here were breathtaking, with the red of the volcano and the bright green of the trees against the blue of a glasslike sea on an exceptionally calm day. Though there were a few other hikers around, it was otherwise completely quiet away from any towns and roads, just the crunching of feet on rocks. There are now a few signs and markers to show the way, and at the top you are able to actually go inside the volcano and cool off from the hike.

From there we visited a friend of Magdalena’s who has a mountainside taverna and handmade stone outdoor theater where he hosts musicians amongst the grape vines. We had lunch down in the cute fishing village of Vathi, then drove up through the mountains to enjoy the amazing panoramic views and purely peaceful calm of the day. I was struck by the fact that she has been to this area a number of times and is still in awe of the beauty. Finally we drove down to Methana Town, a seaside holiday retreat past its prime with a now defunct hot sulfur springs bath house, to swim and do yoga on the beach.

On my final evening, we gathered at our hosts’ home for some food, wine, and hooka, meeting the newest guests from London via New York and South Africa. Some other guests told us of their day on the luxury island of Hydra, the land of the fatter street cats and on this particular day US athlete turned tv host Michael Strahan. My hosts shared a funny story of a tourist putting a skinny cat from Poros on the ferry to Hydra for a better life, hope he made it! Though the daily activities of the week made the trip exciting, it was the evenings spent with people from around the world that made it real. I was constantly impressed and entertained by everyone’s stories from their cultural perspective, the many places they have lived, their vast intelligence and worldiness, and yet how at the end of the day we were all the same despite our differences. That is the essence of what Live-Bio truly is.

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#Greece #Galatas #Poros #Methana #Namea #Peloponnesus