The second week of my Greek adventure began in the picturesque and well known island of Santorini. I always debate spending more time to really get to know a location or less time at each to be able to see more places in my given holiday time. I opted for 3 nights in Santorini which limited the parts of the island I could get to but allowed me to visit one more island (next post "Ios"). ‘Santorini’ actually refers to the whole group of islands formed by the eruption of the volcano 3600 years ago with Thira being the popular destination island (not to be confused with the main town of Fira) and includes the small inhabited Thirassia, private island of Aspronisi, and islets of Nea Kameni volcano and Palea Kameni hot springs. The Cycladic Islands have a very different feel and much drier terrain than the Peloponnesus and Saronic Islands I had just come from (read more about that in my blog “That Peloponnesus Life”), and vary in popularity, crowd sizes, ease of access, and atmosphere though the ability to relax, be active, find adventure, study history, party all night, or remain romantically secluded can be found anywhere in the Cyclades with the right amount of research.
Getting there:
Ferry options from Pireaus port outside of Athens included many morning departures, at least on this Saturday in early September, leaving between 7 and 7:30 am, ranging in price from 40 to 60 EUR and length of trip 4 to 7 hours. There’s an afternoon ferry 3:30 to 9:10 pm for 60 EUR and an overnight ferry 11:55 pm to 8:55 am for 40 EUR. As none of those worked for me, I opted to take the 45 minute flight from Athens to Santorini via Sky Express for $118 USD though there are a number of other similarly priced options with other carriers. I had the choice of booking at an ‘All In’ vs ‘Just Fly’ rate which includes different baggage allowances that can be found on their website, and I booked with them directly rather than through my initial third party search engine for less. This was a 20 row 2x2 prop plane reached via bus on the tarmac with only one seating class, and the exit row/bulkhead is Row 1 requiring English fluency and absolutely no lap items during takeoff and landing (which is the entirety of a 45 min flight therefore no food or beverage service either). Sky Express offers a small but comfortable private lounge to all its customers with food and drinks though the airport wifi leaves much to be desired. My flight was 30 minutes delayed which judging from reviews seems to be common. I was lucky to arrive just minutes before the public bus departure which is very infrequent from the airport at only every 1 to 2 hours but only costs 1.80 EUR for the 20 minute ride to the main town of Fira then another 1.80 to 2.40 EUR to all other island destinations (I highly suggest researching and printing a current copy of the bus schedule from the KTEL website if you plan to use it). The main bus station in Fira is quite chaotic, but they will help you at the window or just by asking around; payment is received on the bus by an attendant who will yell out the stops. There are of course taxis but they may run out quickly and are the most expensive option (about 25 EUR/person to Oia, do not split fare as I understand) as well as prepaid shared shuttles for 15 EUR/person but requires a minimum of two passengers (not the most solo traveler friendly town, insert middle finger emoji). Ferries arrive at the new port Athinios (about 20 minutes by bus from Fira) rather than the old port Gialos below Fira used by cruise ships, and multiple modes of transport are available to and from there as well. Be sure to bring half a euro if you want to take a piss at the ferry port, worth it for the privacy and ability to sit down in the crowded terminal. For more general Greek travel information and why you should disregard everything I just said about the transportation schedules, read my previous blog “It’s All Greek to Me.”
Where to Stay:
Santorini offers many villages to call home for your stay depending on the environment you would like to be in. I can only offer the point of view from where I stayed in Finikia along the caldera (this is the ledge formed by the volcano on the western border) between busy Fira in the center and Oia (pronounced EE-AH) on the northwest tip known for amazing sunset views. Firostefani and Imerovigli lie along this route as well and share the same layout with luxury hotels and their pools (no beach access up here) stacked upon each other down the steep caldera wall, small town areas with shops and restaurants at the top, and the villages where residents live down the backside quickly flattening out to the coast on the east. All offer the stunning postcard views associated with Santorini, and I was very happy staying in Finikia just shy of Oia to save money as a solo traveler though I did not initially realize the ocean views I was seeing in the pictures were of the flatter side opposite the caldera but also quite beautiful. Much less crowded than the other towns along the caldera, I could walk to Oia during the day as well as through the town down to the winery below, and think this is the best way to see the less touristy side of Santorini while taking the bus at night only to avoid walking in the dark along a main road; I always felt safe but awareness and common sense are still necessary of course. I did have to talk my way onto the bus’s jumpseat in Oia as they did not want to stop in Finikia so be sure to ask/demand. For a less crowded stay, there are more traditional towns south of Fira and beachfront locations along the southern and eastern coastline with beautiful beaches. I can’t say I fully recommend my hotel, Villa Pezoula though the included breakfast, pool, and views were nice, my room was small, stuffy, outdated, loud, and had definitely been smoked in. This cost me $100 USD/night whereas the nicer hotels along the caldera usually run $250 USD and (way) up, still the most expensive hotel of my stay. There are also hostels in Fira and around the island for much less, so there’s still something for all budgets.
Things to Do:
Known for lots of eating, shopping, and lounging, Santorini still has much to offer the more active budget conscious traveler like myself. Sadly, I only had 2 full days there that weren’t partial travel days, so I had to choose what I wanted to do based on what I enjoy most. My first day I took the bus to Fira to begin the 10K/6.2 mile hike to Oia along the caldera. I used this detailed blog by Santorini Dave to help guide me though I lost some of it due to lack of wifi (cell service should work, I just didn’t want to pay for it). Since he tells you what to do very well, I’ll just highlight what not to do based on my own mistakes. Don’t start as late as I did (around 11:30 am after the morning fog burned off) as it’s very hot in summer (duh) unless you’re planning for a sunset/dinner arrival. Don’t run out of water because there’s nothing between Imerovigli and Oia (duh). This may require a detour off the caldera edge into town but there is one last café with a cold drink cooler at the edge of the hotel district. In the towns, the “hike” is along the main pathways and can get very crowded lacking even the ability to get a photo without people in it, but don’t let the pictures in his above blog fool you like I did. Between towns this is a real hike with steep grades, rugged terrain, and nothing but loose pebbles between you and a slip off the edge so don’t wear flip flops (duh). Though I was alone, there were usually at least a few people around in the rough spots for safety, but it definitely thins out between Imerovigli and Oia. Signage is sporadic and you may spend a little time lost as I did, but this doesn’t make my ‘duh’ list unless you don’t leave enough time for expected mistakes. One thing I did right was add the optional but tough portion to Skaros Rock. Be sure to continue down the backside and look for the church over the edge. There are 2 spots along the hike where people leave love locks, the first as you’re leaving the town of Fira along the iron railing and the second in the archway of the Ekklisia Profitis Ilias church above Finikia. Santorini Dave’s estimate of 2-4 hours didn’t apply to me as I apparently needed 5 hours just to get to Finikia where I stopped at my hotel (Skaros detour, flip flops, lack of water, extreme heat, and getting lost not withstanding) then at least another hour the following day to complete the trip through Oia to Ammoudi Bay with a stop at the overly crowded Byzantine castle ruins. The best part of this activity after the breathtaking views of course is the fact that it is free outside of the few euros it costs for water and one way bus ticket.
By stopping the hike at my hotel in Finikia, I was able to relax and change before walking down to the Domaine Sigalas winery for sunset. This is a popular time of course and I didn’t have a reservation, but they were able to accommodate me at a less scenic table for a pre-dinner tasting. They do offer food and full glasses, but I wanted to try a recommended restaurant up the hill. There are tours that go here snatching up the best tables as well as visit other wineries on Santorini (Santo, Venetsanos, Argyros, and many more generally located in the middle of island). I had looked up a sunset wine tour prior to coming as well Domaine Sigalas’s own gastronomy and wine tasting tour yet again running into the 2 person minimum requirement (where’s that middle finger emoji?) not to mention high pricing. I paid 5 EUR for a tasting of 3 wines while listening to the tour guide next to me talking to his group. Not only was my transportation there free as I was on foot, it was the highlight of the outing. After experiencing a mostly crowded touristy side of Santorini, I was happy to find myself in the quiet traditional village of Finikia where real people live, even having to yell over walls to ask if it was safe to walk past the donkey taking up the entire small pathway (I’d always learned never to go behind one as they kick if spooked). Learning to double the google maps estimate, the walk to the winery took about 30 minutes from the main road on the caldera side and even without service guided me pretty well through the narrow unmarked streets of the village.
My second and final full day, I booked a 40 EUR traditional boat tour with Pagonis Tours to the Volcano, Hot Springs, and Thirassia with a sunset viewing from Ammoudi Bay with the 3 pm departure. There’s a 9:30 am tour as well if you don’t want to hike the volcano in the heat of the afternoon or the option to remain on the boat. Though they transport you to and from your hotel, I chose to complete the hike to Oia in the morning and meet them at the port. Excited to only have a few people in our boat, we then took a lovely ride where I got to view the distance that I hiked from the water, only to pick up many more in Fira. We arrived first to the Nea Kameni volcano, where for an additional 2.50 EUR you can hike up with a guide and few hundred other people from the many tour boats that stop here. Still definitely worth it not only for the spectacular full caldera views of Thira, but also to really get a perspective how the once circular island dropped out around the centralized volcano and backfilled with water to form the islands as they exist today. Still considered an active volcano having last erupted in 1950, the guide will dig a few inches into the ground and allow you to see, feel, and smell the sulfuric steam. The early eruption around 1600 BC wiped out the ancient Minoan civilization at Akrotiri while leaving the ruins well preserved for visiting outside of Pyrgos as well as creating a tsunami that buried the Minoans on Crete, linking Santorini to the possible site of literature’s Lost City of Atlantis. Next the boat went over to the Palea Kameni hot springs which most reviews will caution require a bit of a swim and are more warm than hot. Don’t listen to the haters and jump on in, though the water is a bit brown so a darker swimsuit would be advised. Our final stop was for an hour on Thirassia with a cute port and town above, but mostly deserted for either siesta or end of season without much to do but sit at a taverna, which I can recommend the gelato at Captian John’s. We pulled away out into the famous Oia sunset enjoying the photo opp and short cruise back to Ammoudi Bay for the few us from there while the remainder continued back to Fira. The area was completely packed with sunset viewers and the shuttles picking up boat tour passengers so be aware if planning to view from the island’s northwest tip. There are of course many more things to do in Santorini including visiting the beaches by bus or boat (<$100 USD/person), tour the Akrotiri ruins, enjoy Kamari’s outdoor cinema, and checkout Fira’s nightlife or just relax because it’s your vacation!
Where to Eat:
Or rather where I ate because the delicious recommendations are endless. Most hotels will include breakfast, and you can never go wrong when there’s fresh Greek yogurt involved (it’s nothing like the containers we eat at home). For lunch I enjoyed Ammoudi Fish Tavern in Oia with seaside seating so I could look out for my boat tour as it’s next to the boarding pier. Hint, go upstairs for amazing views and more bathrooms without a wait. My first dinner in Oia was at Catch Bar Restaurant’s rooftop with sunset views. I was greeted with a bit of surprise for walking up the back steps rather than through the front entrance, asking for a table for one, and doing so without a reservation, but all was well. The ambiance and food were absolutely perfect (I had the giant calamari over risotto pictured), and though I had not prepared myself by looking at the menu before going, it was completely worth the high price tag (2 glasses of wine and a meal was around $70 USD including 7 EUR for shared bottled water). The following night I was looking for a more authentic Greek menu and experience which I found at Meze Meze down in the village of Finikia. Partway down to the winery, I stopped to reserve a spot for dinner which was not necessary as this was much different than dining in Oia. I enjoyed fava crusted sea bass over potatoes for 13 EUR, ¼ L of wine for 4 EUR, and 1 EUR bottled water I could keep. So there definitely are options outside of the major tourist areas to save money and avoid the crowds that are also quite lovely and more authentic.
Getting real:
Santorini is one of the most photographed places in the world because it truly is one of the most breathtaking. I certainly enjoyed my time there, but I must say it was my least favorite stop of my Greece trip. Perhaps biased by the less popular and more genuine Peloponnesus I had come from, I found Santorini too crowded and expensive. I had to search for solitude in nature along the deserted part of the caldera hike and seek out authenticity in the traditional village of Finikia. With cruise ships bringing many thousands into Fira each day (you can check the port’s website for schedules), the main town was filled with souvenir shops and sadly the street beggars that go where the crowds are (only time I saw this in Greece). Oia’s beauty brings day trippers in to overcrowd the streets and sunset viewers filling the restaurants. My heart broke when I heard a tour guide telling a large group in Oia that there was “nothing back that way” pointing toward the natural hiking path I had just taken with isolated churches and amazing views not to mention the authentic village of Finikia, but to just head in the opposite direction toward the shopping which sadly is what most were looking for anyways. At the dock while waiting for my traditional wooden boat, the staff of the catamaran companies were assuring their guests that would not be their boat while laughing at their own history much to the tourists’ relief (considering they paid 3 times what I paid which is certainly their choice for a luxury tour). I hope this is isolated to the most popular areas and that other areas of the island would have a different feel. That being said, I was still able to spend my time and money in ways that suited me, and ultimately had a lovely time on Santorini.