Not an operating system, but a Cycladic island of Greece lying in the middle of the Aegean Sea just above Santorini. I was not previously familiar with Ios but at the suggestion of a friend I tried it out knowing little more than its ‘party island’ status. But I am living proof that you do not need to party to enjoy Ios though its daytime beach parties and village nightlife are famous amongst the Greek Island during peak summer season. Instead I found the perfect blend of activities and relaxation I was looking for to finish out my busy two weeks of traveling. In Ios for only 3 nights and without transportation I could not cover all of it, but after the crowds of Santorini (read more), this island was a true oasis. Ios has everything: traditional villages, historic sites, beautiful beaches, and lots of activities from sea level to hilltop. Named for the ‘Ia’ flower, Ios is also called Nio and dates back to prehistoric times. One of my favorite facts is that there are 365 churches for a population of only 2000 people, doesn’t get any more Greek than that!
Getting there:
Ios is a 40 minute highspeed ferry ride from Santorini costing around 30 EUR with numerous departure times and routes originating on other islands (mine left 25 min late and arrived 45 min late). Upon arrival, there are numerous hotel representatives holding signs to pick up guests and a bus stop as well if your travels take you further. There are no large cruise ships that go to Ios (yay for crowd control!) and the nearest airport would be Santorini. Getting around Ios can be done by rental car, atv, taxi, public bus, boat charter, and on foot. From the main bus stop in Chora, there are regular departures to the most popular beach at Mylopotas from 8 am to midnight, hourly to Koumbara beach and the port beginning at 11 am, and once daily to Manganari Beach at 12:30 pm. Getting out of Ios was a little more difficult with only 2 ferry departures on the 2nd Saturday of September, so I was up early for the 7:40 am boat with SeaJets to avoid any possible issues with the only other ferry in the afternoon and not wanting to navigate my final destination of Piraeus/Athens alone in the dark. Find more info on general Greek travel and additional transportation hints here.
Where to Stay:
I really debated this one in choosing between the main town Chora (which means village) up on a hill or down near the water at Mylopotas Beach. I ultimately selected Hotel Avanti just outside the village for the ability to walk to the nearby nightlife knowing the beach was an easy walk or bus ride away. This beautiful family run hotel with resident chihuahua only cost $58 USD/night for a small but lovely 2 twin room with balcony overlooking the pool and village. Breakfast and ferry port transportation were also included. I never heard a peep from other rooms or any noises from town with the doors closed, and enjoyed the lovely breeze with the balcony doors open. Rooms at Mylopotas can be found in any price range and still comparatively inexpensive, particularly at Far Out Beach Resort which offers camping, cabins, bungalows, and villas. There are options near the port and Koumbara Beach as well but it thins out further away from the main town.
Things to Do:
Start by picking up the free guide in your hotel or outside the information booth by the village bus stop, or look for it online at www.iosfreeguide.gr. After much traveling the previous weeks, I began this leg with a massage booked for me by my hotel at Ios Palace on Mylopotas Beach for 65 EUR/55 minutes followed by an afternoon relaxing in the free chairs with wifi at Far Out Beach Club. I walked to the beach using the road then path (there’s a good sign from the road then a less obvious path with the word "BEACH" written on the ground that I somehow missed) taking about 45 minutes with frequent photo stops. Though the bus goes here often (1.80 EUR), I would encourage taking the walk as it’s so beautiful and really the best way to take it all in at a slower pace, but feel free to take the bus back as it’s all uphill. I arrived early for my massage and was able to use the rooftop pool at Ios Palace with stunning views of Mylopotas. My massage with Yiota was fabulous and the spa staff was very kind in attending to me; check their website for additional services. To satisfy my curiosity, I glanced at the room prices which start at 85 EUR. Though Mylopotas has many watersports and daytime parties at the Far Out Beach Club’s pool and bar (where they were filming a popular British reality TV show at the time), it was still relatively quiet and easy to find an open chair to relax.
The aptly named free Ios “guide to heaven” describes a number of hiking trails all over the island. I opted to walk up to the traditional windmills, Odysseus Elytis Theatre, and Skarkos Hill ancient ruins site. The windmills located at the north end of town are no longer operational and are even incorporated into some of the hotels. The open air theatre was built in 1997 in the traditional style and offers amazing views of Mylopotas Beach. Not well signed, I was only able to find it after following some other people and recall entering through what looked like someone’s private property.
It should then be no surprise that I proceeded to get lost again in trying to get to Skarkos Hill though in hindsight it would have been very easy had I identified the right path (no sign). I was using Google Maps with no cellular service which only offers partial accuracy, but I didn’t mind the scenic detouring taking me an hour rather than the 20 to 30 minutes it should have. Once off the road, which itself is not very busy, the path wanders past rural homes and farm country, so quiet I found myself talking to the stone walls. I was lucky when I arrived that it was not a Monday or after 3 pm when it is closed and that I had the 4 EUR admission on me, all info that I had not seen previously. I was greeted by a sleepy dog and 2 attendants who offered me brief instructions on the site which follows a roped path leading to 3 information placards. Inhabited from about 2800 BC to 2300 BC (wrap your head around that for a minute!), the settlement excavated in the 1980s remained very well preserved, showing an advanced organized township and containing numerous artifacts that have been moved to the museum in town. At nearly 3 acres, Skarkos is the largest and best preserved site of the Early Bronze Age, but only a small area is accessible to visit. I was there completely by myself as I had been for the walk with the exception of an awesome donkey who came right up to me when he saw my camera, posing like a Kardashian (there’s an ass joke in there somewhere).
That afternoon, I took the bus to Koumbara Beach (1.80 EUR) which is smaller and less crowded than Mylopotas with completely calm water and natural rock formations. Basic chairs and umbrellas are available at Koumbara Seafood for 3 EUR, while Erego Beach Club offers upscale beach beds for 10 to 40 EUR depending on size and location (they remained virtually empty that day). There’s a beautiful infinity pool with cushion floats up the stairs at Erego’s restaurant with free seating for those who spend at least 15 EUR on food and drink, but I found them all labeled reserved yet unoccupied at a late afternoon hour and no one interested in offering me service so I could spend any money there. I very much enjoyed the quiet beach from the cheap seats and went for a swim in the clear still water. There are other small bays you can walk to, and the sunset is spectacular.
There are more remote beaches on the island to enjoy, as well as a number of museums and galleries, souvenir and boutique shopping, the proposed site of Homer’s tomb, and annual traditional celebrations. Known for its nightlife that begins around midnight and ends when the sun comes up, my only exposure to that was passing a large number of bars and clubs closed during the hours I was awake and witnessing a few people staggering home as I caught the early morning ferry.
Where to Eat:
There are so many recommended places, but I could only make it to a few in my short time on the island. I saw my first Ios sunset at Ios Club over a pre-dinner cocktail where the seating is stacked on the hillside stadium style for optimal unobstructed views over the ocean. I was able to grab a bean bag chair about 30 minutes before sunset while many of the tables had been reserved. They have a food menu too, but in trying to experience more places I wanted to wander around through the village before choosing a dinner spot. I opted for La Buca and enjoyed the spinach ravioli while overlooking the Cathedral Church lit up at night, the kids running around in the town plaza, and the buses bringing in more people for their nighttime activities. I also ate down at Koumbara beach where there are only 2 restaurants, but I had issues at both being first ignored at Erego despite obviously reviewing a menu then received poor incomplete service at Koumbara Seafood so I don’t have much to say about the food, but the views are very beautiful. I believe this occurred because seeing a solo person does not register in the Greek culture as someone ready to eat but rather waiting for companions as meals are very social, at least that’s what I hope so I can write it off as a cultural difference. If you’re counting that’s only 2 dinners in 3 nights because I filled up on spanakopita (phyllo wrapped spinach and feta pie) at a local shop and a frozen Greek yogurt from Click during a late afternoon stroll through the village. Other highly recommended restaurants around Chora include The Nest, Safran, Mozaik, and The Mills, but you really can’t go wrong with any food in Greece.
Getting real:
After falling in love with the traditional culture on Greece’s Peloponnesus (read more), I was happy to be back in a place where that felt genuine. Without the crowds of cruise ships and general tourists on this lesser known island, Ios was a refreshing more affordable change. It was nice to be greeted with the sights of real Greek life from the men gathering at the local taverna to the women in headscarves shuffling to church. I was afraid the alleged late nightlife noise would keep me awake, but I was never disturbed, and rather enjoyed listening to the sounds of the small kids playing in town late into the evenings. Also, the wifi was by far the best on this island perhaps without many competing users. I would highly recommend a stay on Ios for its combination of beaches, activities, history, culture, and (unwitnessed) party scene and can’t wait to return to explore the other islands of the Cyclades!