After discovering Abraham Tours’ 10 day Best of Israel and Jordan package a while back, I was finally able to make this dream trip come true in early September 2018. The pre-planned full itinerary was perfect for my last minute solo traveler needs while the hostel-style home base kept the group youthful and small, quite a contrast from the many tour groups I encountered along the way. The cost was relatively inexpensive from $878 USD for a shared room and bathroom to my chosen upgrade of private room and bath for $1303 (plus flights). This included 3 nights in Tel Aviv, 2 nights in Nazareth, 1 night in Petra, and 3 nights in Jerusalem plus all transports (excluding to/from airport), daily breakfast, 3 lunches, 3 dinners, and some of the tours/fees while explicitly stating which were not included (an additional $164 USD over the week) and which were fully guided versus self-guided using the Abraham Tours app and/or site pamphlet. The option to wander alone at your own pace with some free time to spare made the experience much more pleasant than previous tours I have taken. Below is the itinerary which begins every Friday from Tel Aviv or can be done in a slightly different order leaving every Wednesday from Jerusalem, with a lot of flexibility to alter, add, or create your own plan using Abraham Tours’ many options.
Day 1: Arrive in Tel Aviv
Day 2: Tel Aviv bike tour (guided)
Day 3: Kibbutz experience (guided), evening Israeli cooking workshop
Day 4: Caesarea and Nazareth (self-guided)
Day 5: Galilee and Golan Heights (self-guided), evening Arabic cooking workshop
Day 6: Jerash and Amman, Jordan (guided)
Day 7: Petra, Jordan (guided)
Day 8: Jerusalem Holy City Tour (guided)
Day 9: Masada, Ein Gedi, and Dead Sea (self-guided)
Day 10: Depart from Jerusalem
I’m going to save the Jordan portion for my next blog, but here are the highlights and my overall experience from Israel, a land full of history and diversity that appeals to all regardless of your background, beliefs, and interests.
Jaffa Port: Sandemans New Europe offers a free daily tour of the 4000+ year old active port leaving at 11:00 am from the Jaffa clock tower (as well as many other free and paid tours in Israel and around the world). Not only is the port located along the beautiful seafront at the southern end of Tel Aviv, it is full of history and legend. In ancient Egyptian days, the pharaoh hid soldiers inside sacks disguised as gifts to conquer the city, the original Trojan Horse trick. Considered the birthplace of Christianity, Saint Peter’s church is built on the site where he had the vision of clean and unclean animals together (non-kosher) and began to teach about Christianity folowing Jesus’ death. The dangerous rocky port has traded hands many times over the years, all leaving their mark on the landscape. Modern Jaffa is a mostly Muslim area with many parks overlooking the water and home to the Wishing Bridge where legend states if you touch your zodiac sign while looking out to the sea, then your wish will come true. The tour concludes at Vista Coffee where your ticket will get you a discount on beverages and treats to enjoy along the water with the best views of Tel Aviv’s beaches.
Tel Aviv's Beaches: A short walk from Jaffa will bring you to the Tel Aviv Promenade, a 3 mile beachfront walkway/bike path with packed beaches on one side and the towering buildings of a major metropolis on the other, reminiscent of Miami. There are many public parks and ocean view eateries to stop at along the way. I can still hear the sounds of the numerous paddle ball games lining the water’s edge, some players so serious they were wearing professional gloves. I was only hit a few times while relaxing on the sand, skipping the bike tour included in my package. Along the walk home, I discovered the Rothschild Blvd area full of bars and restaurants close to the Abraham Hostel.
Ma’agan Michael Kibbutz Tour: A kibbutz offers a communal lifestyle based on the socialist ideas of the Eastern European and Russian refugees coming to Israel in the early 1900s. Originally based on agriculture, most kibbutzim now run large businesses as well as support small businesses within the community. All age appropriate members must work, whether inside or outside of the community, and wages are pooled then split evenly so the CEO and the guy who cleans his office will all make the same amount (relatively speaking, there are bonus options). The collective takes care of the children with early education on site and by paying for higher education as well as the elderly by providing for the healthcare of all members and keeping the advanced generation engaged. You can choose to use the communal dining hall, laundry, and rental car service or purchase your own means. As unfamiliar and potentially undesirable as this may sound to most, this lifestyle is so popular that the only way to join is by birth or marriage. The kibbutz offers an Ulpan program, 5 months of Hebrew language studies and volunteer community work for singles or couples age 18-30, and it is through these opportunities that many meet their spouse and are eligible for membership which occurs after 2 years of proving oneself and being voted upon. Surprisingly, the kibbutz is not religious having no rabbi or synagogue on site, with all decision making coming from self-governing bodies and committees.
Caesarea: An hour north of Tel Aviv, you’ll find the ancient ruins of Caesarea on the coast, a port town gift from Augustus Caesar to Herod the Great in 30 BC. We paid the $11 USD entry fee and then wandered around the site for a couple hours using the pamphlet provided, the Abraham Tours app, and placards at significant sites, though large guided tour groups were also there. Entering through the less crowded Crusader Gate, it’s odd to be greeted by modern shops and restaurants though they are a nice way to relax by the sea. Decimated in 1265, this is still an active archeological site with much ruins uncovered typical of a Roman town including a public bathhouse, hippodrome for chariot racing and other sporting events, and an amphitheater. The views of the sea were beautiful and the quality of the ruins incredible, but I was disappointed in the modernization of the theater which was set up for a concert including large stage and electrical equipment which spoiled the history.
Nazareth: An hour long drive from Caesarea brought us to Nazareth which took me by surprise. I’m not sure what I expected of the childhood home of Jesus, but it was not the bustling city now considered the Arab capital of Israel. At 70% Muslim and 30% Christian, it was notable that you could hear both church bells and the call to prayer resonating through the town. As such, I was uncomfortable in my chosen outfit of shorts and tank top amongst a culture where less skin is typically shown. With our free afternoon, I joined a few members of our group walking around the town to the historical sites along the Jesus Trail, most notably the Church of the Annunciation where Mary received the message from Gabriel that she would bear the son of God (entrance is free and they provided me with a skirt and shawl for cover). Other significant sites in the town include the Synagogue Church where Jesus declared himself to the people, the White Mosque, Mary’s Well, and many other churches.
Galilee: After driving through Kafar Kanna and viewing the church built on the site where Jesus turned water into wine, we were dropped off at a few important sites for self-guided tours with instructions to dress modestly or cover up. First, we visited Capernaum ($1.50 USD), known as the Town of Jesus and viewed the ruins of the synagogue where he preached and the house of Saint Peter. Next, we stopped at Mount Beautitude (admission included, otherwise $1.50 USD) where Jesus gave his famous Sermon on the Mount. After the Golan Heights (see below), we concluded the day at Amnon Beach at the Sea of Galilee (free), a rather run down area leading to the very shallow and rocky/muddy misnamed freshwater lake where Jesus walked on water.
Golan Heights: This mountainous region in northeast Israel borders Lebanon, Syria, and Jordan, and as a region of much controversy and war, still contains marked active land mine areas. At Banias Nature Reserve ($8 USD), we walked along the spring to the waterfall. Our time was limited, but there are many other hiking trails and natural spots to enjoy here, and I would recommend staying to the right to follow the suspended bridge trail down rather than the more popular steps. After enjoying lunch in Masade overlooking a volcanic lake, we continued to Mount Bental (free), a volcanic mountain used strategically by Israeli military in 1973 to defeat the much larger Syrian army. Bunkers carved into the mountain can still be accessed and are quite cool and creepy at the same time. Since we began our day with the site where Jesus turned water into wine, it was only appropriate we conclude at Bahat Winery (free) on the Ein Zivan Kibbutz where we tasted many flavored liqueurs and 4 red wines after touring the small family run winery with the owner.
Jerusalem Old City: As in Tel Aviv, Sandeman’s New Europe offers a number of free and paid Jerusalem tours, and included in our trip was the 4 hour Holy City Tour (otherwise $33 USD) which explores the commonality between the Jewish, Christian, and Muslim holy sites (modest dress required). We met at the Jaffa Gate, crossing into the Old City at the Tower of David and continuing through the Armenian Quarter, the first Christians who brought their beautiful women to marry the leaders in Jerusalem. We visited the Tomb of King David, the site of the last supper, and viewed the Mount of Olives where Jews believe those buried there will rise first with the coming of the Messiah (a plot is more expensive than an apartment), Christians believe Jesus ascended following his resurrection, and Muslims believe a seven arch bridge as thin as a strand of hair will lead the resurrected souls to the Temple Mount. Next we viewed and talked about the Muslim holy sites Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque but were not able to visit on a Friday, though they are included on the Sun-Thur tour in lieu of King David’s Tomb and the site of the last supper. We went through security down to the Wailing Wall, the remaining western portion of the Second Temple built in 19 BC by Herod the Great where all can pray and leave a small note in the cracks of the wall which will be cleaned out and buried. The traditional Orthodox Jewish section separates men and women while the Reform Jews can pray together a little further down from the more well-known portion. We then followed a few of the stations along the Via Doloroso, the path Jesus walked on the way to his crucifixion, a common pilgrimage march ending at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where Jesus was crucified and buried. Inside the church there are many important sites crowded with pilgrims and tourists including the Stone of Anointing where Jesus’ body was prepared for burial with a beautiful mosaic behind depicting the scene, the upstairs Calvary where Jesus was crucified upon the skull of Adam with the Chapel of Adam lying below, and the tomb containing the Holy Sepulchre where it is believed Jesus was buried. Once a year during the Holy Fire ceremony preceding Easter Sunday, religious leaders enter the tomb with unlit candles which are miraculously lit upon emerging. The flame is then shared within the church and can even be brought on board an airplane to return to the priests’ home churches. During Muslim rule under the Crusaders, the church was locked up and the same Muslim family still locks and unlocks the church daily.
Ein Gedi Nature Reserve: Driving past incredible views of the Judean Desert’s rolling hills with nomadic Bedouin campsites sprinkled throughout, we arrived at the oasis of Ein Gedi ($8 USD) for a self-guided tour. We were greeted by a herd of Ibex, a horned wild goat adept at climbing, and a few Rock Hydrax, rodent-like mammals with suction cup feet, playing and eating in the trees. Had we been there at night, we might have encountered leopards, hyenas, wolves, fox, and bats (no thanks!). We hiked past waterfalls and swimming holes, through streams and caves, stopping for the stunning Dead Sea views along the way to David’s Waterfall. There was a little time left to explore the synagogue ruins on site, still actively being excavated.
Masada: Often visited for a sunrise hike, we stopped at the ancient plateau in the afternoon and took the cable cars up ($20 USD). King Herod built a palace on the hilltop in 27 BC overlooking the Dead Sea. Following his death, his weaker sons were challenged by the Romans and after holding Masada under siege for many months, the Jewish rebels eventually killed themselves rather than be under Roman rule, an act forbidden in Jewish law. Again many large tour groups are on site, but the Abraham Tour app, pamphlets, and signs make for a nicer experience away from the crowds. Many ancient structures still exist (with a black line running through to indicate reconstructions performed above) such as the commandant’s residence and headquarters, storeroom, bathhouse, palace, water system, synagogue, and church.
Dead Sea: There is no way to adequately describe the feeling of floating in the Dead Sea, which is the lowest point on the planet at over 1200 feet below sea level with 10x the salinity of the ocean. This misnamed salt water lake is losing about 3 feet every year leaving dangerous sinkholes and properties far from their original shoreline in its wake. We visited via Kalia Beach (included but otherwise $16 USD), a nice family friendly spot with a restaurant, outdoor bars, pools, picnic areas, cabanas, massage services, and large changing area. Access to the Dead Sea is down a long ramp and steps which grows as the sea level drops. Once in the water, just lay back and you’ll pop right up into a back float; it’s even difficult to get yourself back to standing the buoyancy is so strong. Just a tip, don’t shave prior to floating as the high salinity will burn every open cut you have and definitely avoid getting the water in your eyes. No trip to the Dead Sea is complete without caking the mud from the shore all over your body for its famous soothing properties. Freshwater showers are available to rinse off.
There was only one troubling experience during this whole time, and it occurred back in the US with El Al Airline security. In a time of Israeli business boycotts based solely on antisemitism, it pains me to shine a negative light on Israel’s airline, but I will absolutely never fly with them again. I selected the cheapest flight option I could find ($1156 USD less than 2 months out) and felt comfort in knowing I was flying with the safest airline in the world, until I learned how they gained that reputation at my expense. Likely targeted initially for traveling alone as a non-Israeli, not knowing anyone in Israel, having a recent Morocco stamp in my passport, and an itinerary that included Muslim areas set me up for an hour of intense questioning, backroom pat-down and additional scanning, and complete search of my carryon bag including the contents of my cell phone all while I was not present. Ultimately they confiscated my electronics, chargers, medicine, and toiletries to be placed in my checked bag, which was also thoroughly tossed and left in shambles. Long haul flights are unpleasant period, but doing so with no form of distraction or sleeping pills was miserable. Naturally I was pissed, but in trying to see the bright side and remain mindfully aware, this highly negative experience left me with some positive takeaways. Immediately, there was the kindness of the strangers sitting near me when I was crying (yep, I completely lost it once on the plane!) offering me a book I had unfortunately already read and a laptop which I was not comfortable accepting. I was able to be completely present with my thoughts whether I wanted to or not and find ways to control the negativity coming up, all while observing how my lip balm addiction and lack thereof for 11 hours affects my daily life ;) I found compassion and understanding for the Israeli people who are forced to practice this intense security due to the terrorism threats they endure on a regular basis. But most importantly I found empathy for all those who are unfairly targeted every day for the color of their skin, the traditional clothes they wear, or the accents coming from their mouths. Relatively speaking, my experience was quite minor and as such I am able to let it go, well for the most part. Even without all this, the service, cleanliness, and entertainment options of El Al were far below the industry standard. Of note, leaving Israel on any airline as a non-Israeli will take a little extra time in a separate security line, and they recommend arriving 3 hours before your departure time. There are a handful of airport transfer options, and I found the most useful information here.
After that, I felt completely welcomed in Israel and Jordan both. Communication in English was abundant and the people very friendly. Israel as a country and this tour specifically offer something for everyone. From the modern and secular city of Tel Aviv on the coast to the deeply religious and historically important Jerusalem along the controversial West Bank, travelers of all faiths (or none) can find what they are looking for here. Israel boasts coastline, mountains, deserts, and misnamed lakes for all your land and sea pleasures. Days can be filled with tours while nights are spent partying with the locals, unless it’s Shabbat (sundown Friday to sundown Saturday) which you have to watch for business closings and limited transportation options. Ultimately, what I was most struck by was how the daily lives of Jews, Muslims, and Christians are as intertwined as their common history. In the areas I visited, everyone lives as friends and neighbors, and you can almost forget the constant news stories of hate and violence that plague this small but volatile region. Not to downplay the very real tragedies and human toll, but it was refreshing to learn the headlines are not the reality (like in the US not everyone is the mass shooting racist the media would have the world believe); these are the fringe extremists while the vast majority of people are kind members of the same human race. I highly recommend staying at the Abraham hostels and booking tours through them. The rooms were very nice for a hostel and there are constant activities going on, listed on the board in the lobby daily. The only thing I would change about this trip is possibly doing the Jerusalem start (otherwise the Tel Aviv hostel which is the best sets you up for disappointment as the trip goes on) and then being able to add more time in Jordan (such as the extra day in Wadi Rum) which is where that tour ends then adding on a few days in Eilat, Israel’s seafront resort town in the south, to decompress from a fun but exhausting week. Meet me back here soon for the conclusion of this series all about Jordan!