When my friends asked me to join them for the Napa Women’s Half Marathon in March, I must have stopped listening at “Napa” when I jumped at the chance. Having visited the beautiful California wine country a few times before didn’t prevent me from taking this opportunity once again, knowing full well we would have an entirely different experience as there are an endless number of wineries, restaurants, and activities to enjoy. We aimed to try new places after hitting many of the main attractions previously (click here for that itinerary), so this trip had us stepping up our wine game a little and including some non-wine agenda items for those running the half marathon or just needing a wine break.
Planning out your time in Napa can be a bit of a challenge (or super fun if you’re an organizer like me!) as many wineries require appointments or only offer limited tour times to maintain exclusivity. I started with a list of recommendations from friends which I grouped by location, then noted the hours, tour times, and walk-in versus appointment only tasting options and prices, aiming for a balance so the schedule was not too tight. Compared to my previous trips, it seemed like more appointments were required and the cost had increased greatly, in addition to credit card information being taken or even charged in order to hold. Most restaurants will also require advanced reservations, especially on weekends, again with credit card information being taken. I love when an itinerary comes together while enjoying the ways in which it changes over the trip, and this ‘Napa Rewined’ was a perfect combination of the two.
Where to Drink
William Hill: This was our first and unplanned winery of the trip being a couple hundred yards from where we were staying at the Fairways at Silverado (www.vrbo.com) just north of downtown Napa. It is typically reservation only, but we called ahead to learn they did have space due to a cancelation. We sat in their signature white Adirondack patio chairs overlooking the panoramic vineyard views of the Silverado Bench region while enjoying the $45 wine and snack pairing.
Long Meadow Ranch: Though you can taste some of their wines and olive oil on a walk-in basis at the Farmstead General Store in St Helena, we had a 10 am appointment at their Mayacamas Estate high up in the mountains. We began with an interesting history lesson from Anthony on the way up dating back to the California Gold Rush of the 1850s which brought Europeans who in turn brought winemaking to Napa Valley. This particular property was given to EJ Church by General Grant following the American Civil War. When the current owners purchased it in the 1980s, they discovered and healed the original olive trees and are only 1 of 2 Napa wineries with their own olive press which is cleaned without chemicals by using citrus from the farm and then sold as Limonato. They organically farm their three wine estates’ grapes and other produce and responsibly raise livestock for their farm-to-table restaurant Farmstead. Even the award winning building itself is constructed out of material found on the mountain. Our $75 experience included a tour of the winery and barrel cave with spider web covered library collection (this is a time capsule sampling of every bottle of wine ever made there) as well as a tasting of 7 estate wines (including a white pinot noir) and olive oil from the 150 year old trees.
Newton: After winding back up Spring Mountain, through the security gates, and past a red telephone booth sitting smack in the middle of the vineyards, we met Edgar and another small group of girls for our scheduled $75 tour of Newton Vineyards. Known for their landscaping blending the owners’ Chinese and English heritage, the exquisitely manicured gardens insulate the barrel caves and library collection below to maintain a constant temperature of 56-58 degrees Fahrenheit. Tall cypress trees line the property, and a 360 degree view of the mountainside vineyards can be appreciated from the rooftop deck. The majority of their production is done underground with the intention to blend naturally into the mountain. In the tasting room we tried 6 unfiltered and single vineyard wines, and be sure to check out the infinity mirrors in the bathroom here.
Whitehall Lane: Though not necessary, we made an appointment for a $35 winery tour and tasting at Whitehall Lane back on the main road in St Helena. Though our guide was fun and knowledgeable, winery and grounds well kept, and the wines tasty, this visit just couldn’t compare with the scenic high end experiences we had up in the mountains earlier in the day.
Trefethen: We started the next day with a 10 am $45 vineyard and winery tour reservation at Trefethen in Oak Knoll along with another couple while some members of our party enjoyed the $25 and $35 tasting only. Unlike other tours led by trained guides, our leader actually seemed to be involved in the winemaking and business side of the winery (more like scientist Ross in Friends rather than Joey who gets a job leading tours). As such, the tour was very science heavy which was interesting but not always easy to follow. We learned about the owl boxes to keep the rodents away from the vines, how the space between vine spurs should be that of your fist with thumb extended, and how nitrogen rich plants are planted between the vines which absorbs into the soil and thus the grape to feed the yeast during fermentation. Their vast vineyards produce a wide variety of grapes sold to many other wineries such as Cakebread. A goal at Trefethen is consistency, such that the same varietal from varying years will taste more or less the same. We concluded in the tasting room trying 11 delicious wines at the long table made from a tree that fell on the property during the 2014 earthquake I believe ( I had a hard time paying attention most of this day now that I think about it!).
Peju: We stopped into this Rutherford winery for a walk-in tasting with our picnic lunch from Oakville Grocery. The grounds are lovely with Dr Seuss trees lining the drive, tulips bursting around the water features, and a coy pond off to the side of the signature pink tower. We were on our last bites when we learned picnicking was not actually allowed here nor at most wineries anymore whether stated on the website, a sign out front, or just left for you to guess. The tasting room inside is behind an impressive stained glass window made in 1906 Germany and offers $40 classic or $75 reserve tastings.
Far Niente: This reservation only hillside winery is the definition of high end service matched only by the views and delicious wines. We were greeted in the parking lot and checked in before climbing the beautifully landscaped stairs to the main building. A sister winery to Nickel & Nickel, Dolce, EnRoute, and Bella Union, this winery gets its name from the Italian phrase “Dolce Far Niente” or the “sweetness of doing nothing.” The owners’ personal touches are seen in the grounds and garden with their landscaping background and in the garage of vintage cars reflecting their racing interests. Our host Rory took our group of 3 along with 3 other ladies on a tour of the extensive barrel caves under grand chandeliers, past the Dolce brand’s arched gateway, and through the library collection of aging wines. After climbing the spiral staircase, we concluded the tour in the private upstairs tasting room with a gorgeous view of the vineyards, sampling 4 more wines each perfectly paired with different cheeses as listed on our personalized tasting menu. Having our tasting fees waived when my friends joined their wine club was a ‘dolce’ bonus.
Castello di Amorosa: This was an unplanned stop when the rain spoiled our hiking plans, but when the sun finally came out so did we. Already planning on a day in Calistoga, we definitely wanted to check out the castle. Though we didn’t end up tasting as the lines and full parking lot indicated it may be crowded ($30 or $45 self or guided tours), we strolled through the gorgeous grounds and checked out the farm animals on site including a roaming peacock.
Sterling: From the castle, we spotted the sprawling Sterling winery, the white walls standing out atop the green mountainside. Afraid the aerial tram would draw a large crowd, we were pleasantly surprised when we were the only ones there to purchase our $35 tram ride and tasting with self-guided tour. Though definitely a production with a large corporate feel, the walking tasting with each of the 4 wines at a different stop along the way was an enjoyable experience. The views from the tram and the patio deck were phenomenal and worth the unplanned stop. This is a good activity for kids who typically can’t participate in much around Napa.
Chateau Montelena: We grabbed some delicious lunch from a nearby food truck (see below) hoping to enjoy it on the beautiful grounds of the chateau. Unfortunately picnicking was again not allowed, but the trunk of our rental car in the scenic parking lot worked out just fine. We chose their $30 walk-in tasting though there are more exclusive tours and tastings offered by appointment. Chateau Montelena’s claim to fame is being the Chardonnay category’s first place winner in the 1976 Judgement of Paris blind-tasting, shocking France and the world. Notably, Napa Valley’s Spring Mountain winery won in the red category and the American wines continued to dominate when the competition was repeated again 25 years later. Sorry for ruining the plot of Bottle Shock, but it’s a great movie worth checking out.
Stony Hill: Last but not least and my favorite of this trip was Stony Hill Vineyard in Calistoga! Finding this gem is part of the fun after driving through the narrow winding streets of Bothe-Napa Valley State Park up to the hilltop winery nestled amongst the trees of Spring Mountain. This was an appointment only private tour of the grounds and small winery with a tasting around the dining room table of a cozy ranch home. It was like visiting your hip aunt’s house, if your aunt was a stylish winemaker in the 70s who enjoyed sipping wine on the veranda dappled with afternoon shade (they get the morning sun good for growing the lighter grapes whereas the mountains across the valley get afternoon soon best suited to the bold reds). With a glass of wine in hand, we were led by Sara and her pup Huckleberry through the vineyards, past the spring fed pool, and into the small barrel room. In stark contrast to the large state-of-the art wineries we had visited earlier, Stony Hill uses much of their original equipment and barrels dating back many decades since they focus on flavoring their wines on the vine rather than through production. Whereas previous wineries aim for consistency year to year through science and using new barrels at $1000 a pop, Stony Hill keeps it simple using the same barrels year after year and know their customers trust them to produce a variety of quality wine. The charm of this small family-run winery (recently acquired by Long Meadow Ranch), their delicious white and lighter red wines, and the possibility of renting out that house one day, made my decision to join their wine club an easy one which waived the $45 tasting fee for our group of 5.
Where to Eat
Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch: After receiving a number of recommendations for this St Helena restaurant, we opted for the Chef’s Table experience in the general store. This $185 all-inclusive farm-to-table 5 course meal with olive oil tasting and wine pairing is held at a small shared table open to the adjacent kitchen. A stroll through the garden is usually included, but we got shut down by the rain. Though the menu is set and provided on personalized sheets, dietary needs will be considered and the items altered accordingly. The host and chef introduce all the tastings and courses, while the guests are invited to join the chef in the kitchen at any time. We enjoyed Dungeness crab, jerk spiced octopus, pork belly, grass-fed lamb, and parsnip dessert with a pescatarian substitution of chickpea croquette and potato gnocchi. Though this experience is unique and loved by many, I personally felt the cost was high for small portions of food and repetitive since we had already tasted some of their wines and olive oil at the Mayacamas Estate. I would definitely love to try the main Farmstead restaurant as well as outdoor café on a return visit.
Bottega: This high-end Yountville restaurant is located in the historic Vintage Estate’s stylish V Marketplace. The Italian word ‘bottega’ refers to an artist’s workshop, and artwork is definitely what you see on your plate. We enjoyed the mushroom “Polenta Under Glass” and deconstructed “Spaghetti Gragnano alla Sophia Loren.” Unfortunately we were seated at the one table in the uncomfortably tight dining room that forces one of the guests to stare at the wall. In the future I would instead have a cocktail on their patio and then eat at their more casual mercato Ottimo just across the path.
Torc: Located in downtown Napa, this trendy spot offers delicious food and wines with a focus on affordability. Since we all wanted to try basically everything on the menu, we shared and can all highly recommend the lobster risotto, pappardelle with wild boar, Atlantic cod, and beef duo of filet and pork. They also offer a very reasonable 3 course prix-fixe menu with optional wine pairing.
Morimoto: The Napa location of this multi award winning restaurant is another downtown hotspot. The extensive Japanese menu includes everything from small sharing plates to unexpectedly huge entrees. We were all happy with our choices including sushi, noodle soup, tuna tacos, halibut, and the surf and turf. But if you can’t decide, the chef will do it for you omakase style.
Gott’s Roadside: A great lunch spot between St Helena wineries, this shared table outdoor eatery has an amazing comprehensive menu ranging from the healthy falafel salad to the juicy burgers, garlic fries, and milkshakes.
Oakville Grocery: The perfect place to pick up a picnic lunch in Oakville though I don’t know where you can actually take it anymore?! There’s a board of sandwich options as well as fresh sides, crackers and cheeses, wine, coffee, and even pizza. And if they didn’t want me to eat my weight in free samples placed around the store, they should have made my sandwich faster.
La Gitana Food Truck: Located just off the main road in Calistoga surrounded by rusted antique cars, this traditional Mexican food truck offers huge portions of breakfast and lunch tacos, burritos, and sandwiches for a small price. They’re only open 9 am to 3 pm on weekdays, and there’s picnic table in the lot if you’ve reluctantly given up on finding allowable winery picnic spots.
Salito’s Crab House: We stopped in for lunch at this Sausalito waterfront restaurant on our way from the San Francisco airport up to Napa. Though the rain kept us inside, the marina views would be lovely on a nicer day, and the food was delicious, especially the crab fondue, crab chowder, and crab enchiladas (when in Rome).
Where to Hike
Skyline Wilderness Park: The mountains of Napa Valley aren’t just good for growing grapes, and this park located just a few minutes south of downtown Napa is a hidden gem. Though you can bike, horseback, camp, and legally picnic in the park, I opted to hike the 5.5 mile loop created by the Lake Marie Road Trail and Skyline Trail. There’s a $5 entry fee, and you’ll be given a map and advice at the entrance. You’ll pass native gardens, hike through enchanted forests, and experience phenomenal views on your way to the lake at the top (and back down). There are many different trails to choose so each visit can offer a new adventure. It wasn’t too crowded on a Sunday morning, and every single person was super friendly always offering a greeting in passing, a welcome side effect of being in nature. This is another great option for kids who usually get left out of Napa activities.
Meritage: You can jog or just stroll through the hillside vineyards behind the Meritage Resort and Spa along dedicated trails. There’s a gazebo and overlook deck for incredible views on the way up to the famous Grape Crusher Statue at the top of the hill.
We had planned a hiking day in Calistoga as well which was rained out, but there are a number of trails there within Robert Louis Stevenson State Park and Bothe-Napa Valley State Park. Checkout Napa Outdoors for more information.
Overall, we had a fabulous girls (plus one husband) trip! Having been to Napa in August previously, I would recommend that time of year over spring when the weather can be rainy and the vines do not have any growth on them yet. In the fall, there wasn’t a drop of rain and the vines were lush with leaves and grapes. I was initially put off by the more expensive wine tastings we were planning, but those personal and exclusive tours were by far better than just standing at an indoor bar and contributed greatly to the complete experience. Often fees will be waived if a member of your party is in the food and beverage industry or joins/is a member of the wine club. Napa is an expensive area, but there are ways to save money like purchasing a Wine Passport to taste free or cheap at participating wineries. By staying in a rental condo we were able to cook some of our own meals. We chose to drive responsibly with a sober volunteer each day which saves over using a hired driver or ride shares. My favorite wineries of this trip were Stony Hill and Far Niente, but I also really enjoyed Long Meadow Ranch, Newton, William Hill, and Sterling. Another top experience was hiking in Skyline Wilderness Park. There isn’t a ton to do with kids in Napa Valley, but there are a few things mentioned above and others such as the Napa Wine Train or horseback riding. Though this trip kept us in Napa County, neighboring Sonoma County has much to offer in a more spread out and less touristy setting. I’ll definitely be returning to Napa Valley because…wine not?!