March 8th is International Women’s Day, what better day to share my recent solo travels to Isla Mujeres, or the Island of Women, just off the coast of Cancun, Mexico?! There are two origin stories as to the island’s name. One is that upon (re)discovery in the 1500s, Francisco Fernandez de Cordoba named the island for all the idols to Ixchel found there, the ancient Mayan goddess of the moon, love, fertility, and medicine. Another version sites the fact that many pirates used the location and protection of the island as a home base to plunder the Mayan gold from Spanish ships, leaving their women behind on the island during the expeditions. Either way, modern day Isla Mujeres is a beautiful respite from the touristy Cancun high rises, providing easy and safe access to the history and culture in a truly authentic way. Many just take a day trip to the island from Cancun via party boat or ferry, but I’d argue that a few days is necessary to really explore and experience all that Isla Mujeres has to offer.
Getting to Isla Mujeres takes a few more steps than your average Cancun hotel zone transport. You can overpay for a shuttle or taxi to the ferry port, but I opted to take the local ADO bus to the main terminal downtown then a taxi to the port. For a faster way to get through customs which nobody there seemed to know anything about, read about their new online program here. I got pesos at the Bansi ATM just to the left after exiting customs for a $13 fee (plus $5 from my bank) as the lower fee Santander ATM by the bathrooms was out of service. The peso symbol is also a ‘$’ so when it lists ‘$2000’ for example that means about $100 USD. They will usually accept US Dollars at most places but at such a terrible exchange rate, your atm fees are more than paid for if you estimate well and only use it once. A quick way to think of the exchange rate is a 20 peso bill is $1, a 100 peso bill is $5, and a 500 peso bill is $25. Anyways, back to the bus ticket which I purchased for 94 pesos at a little ADO stand after exiting right from Terminal 3 (most US/Canada flights) telling them I was going to Cancun Centro or Downtown. I did have to wait 50 minutes for my bus though they run every 30 minutes, perhaps the next one was full of purchased tickets from the other local terminals as there aren’t many international travelers who choose this option. It was another 30 minutes before the bus actually left the airport having to make stops at the other terminals as well, then a 30 minute drive to the bus station, so this is definitely not the fastest way to go albeit the cheapest. After the long transport, I just stepped into the first taxi in front of the bus station overpaying 150 pesos or about $7.50 for the 8 min ride to Puerto Juarez though bargaining or walking down the street a little likely would have saved 50 or 100 pesos. At the port, I purchased a round trip ticket for the Ultramar ferry for 300 pesos or $15, actually 2 because I had a mainland tour planned, and credit cards are accepted. The ferries run every 30 minutes for most of the day and then hourly after 8:30 pm. They will assist with luggage for a tip or you can place it on the racks in the back (or keep it with you if small enough). There’s both indoor and outdoor seating along with bathrooms, food and drink for purchase, and sometimes live entertainment on the 20 minute ride. It can be bumpy and even quite wet up top, so be prepared and enjoy the views. As for the return journey, I had done research that a taxi to the airport should be 300 pesos or $15 USD. The rate offered at the port was $65 USD so I laughed at the guy as I ordered a Cabify (like Uber which they also have) for 325 pesos. Joke was on me though when after 25 minutes of trying to communicate in Spanish, I understood the driver could not pick me up at the port due to aggression from the taxi drivers so I picked a new spot down the street. Still not able to meet up with him, I got in cab for 300 pesos when I told the guy my Cabify was on the way for that amount.
Though there are many small boutique and older inexpensive hotels (and only one moderate high rise at Mia Reef), I stayed at the lovely Casa Pina efficiency studio through AirBnB (click here for a discount code) for $125/night including fees. It was a short walk from the ferry port and everywhere downtown which comprises the northern tip of the island. I can’t say enough about this well decorated 2nd floor apartment with hideaway kitchenette and huge balcony overlooking Avenida Guerrero’s shops, restaurants, and street art. After a long day enjoying the sun or an evening out in the town, it truly felt like walking home. Plus, I had access to information and suggestions from my host that you just don’t get at a hotel. Another great budget option is the well known Poc-Na hostel where you can share a room for $12/night or get a private room with private bath for $32/night.
I took a 5 day trip to Isla Mujeres, so really just 3 full days that weren’t consumed with travel, and for me that was enough to do everything I wanted. There’s plenty to do (or not do if that’s your preference) within all budgets, but here are a few of my suggestions. Isla-Mujeres.Net was a great resource.
Walk Around: For a free activity, don your sunscreen and flip flops, and take yourself on a walking tour. You can find a paid tour with a group if you want more info and context, but it’s really not necessary. I did an approximate 2 mile coastline loop of the whole northern tip of the island on a quest to find the best spot to return with my beach chair. Starting at my AirBnB, I walked to the main zocalo or town square, circle in this case, which hosts festivals throughout the year. Empty on this day with views of the church and local basketball court, they were preparing tables for the upcoming Art Festival held the first Thursday of the month. From there I walked to the ferry port turning north up the west coast beaches and malecon (waterfront walkway) at Playa Centro where I got massage pricing for later. Once at the end, I turned eastward to walk along the white sand of Playa Norte, voted one of the top 10 best beaches in the world on Trip Advisor. The beach is lined with small beach bars requiring entry fee or minimum purchase for use of chairs that were quickly filling up by noon as the party boats were rolling in from Cancun blasting club music. Not my preferred scene anymore, I was happy to encounter the more open beach and calm shallow waters over a sandbar at the northeast tip near Mia Reef across the bridge, an all-inclusive resort offering $75 USD day passes, where I would return later with my own beach chair and provisions to enjoy for free. Past the bridge heading south, the landscape changes quickly to rocky shoreline, crashing waves, and natural vegetation of Playa Media Luna which as you may suspect I much prefer to the crowded Playa Norte. There were only a few other people around as I headed along the rocky paths toward the east malecon walkway with the exception of those taking photos at the Isla Mujeres sign near Hotel Perle del Caribe. There are many sculptures along this walk, notably La Triguena, the local brunette love interest of the pirate Mundaca who owned a large portion of the island in the 1800s. There is a good map here of all the sculptures and wall art murals in town. I continued southbound along the east malecon enjoying the ocean views until it ended just south of town, often without a single other person in sight, crossing back over to the west coast near the Naval Base then completing the loop up to the ferry port. This took me about 2 hours walking slowly to marvel at the scenery and stopping often to take photos.
Do Yoga: There are many yoga studios on this health conscious bohemian island, but I chose The Treehouse Yoga studio overlooking Playa Norte. They offer classes at 7:30 and 9:00 am while the beautiful beach is still void of tourists and noise except for the crashing waves and breeze through the palm trees. You need to pay 200 pesos or $11 USD at Buhos Beach Bar before climbing the stairs to the studio platform where mats are provided. Unfortunately, they no longer offer the sunset 6 pm classes as it was too noisy from the crowded beach. The location is perfect for a relaxing meditation and refreshing flow led by local experienced instructors.
Get a Massage: Playa Centro is teeming with beachfront massage huts and therapists who will approach you with offers. The lowest I got was $25 USD for 1 hour and returned to this west coast beach prior to sunset to enjoy after the massage, a time that was cooler and quieter than mid-day. My location was just south of Coco Beach Bar, and though I could hear the music and conversations, I had the private cabana closest to the ocean where some were shared and closer to the road. For anyone who hasn’t had a beach massage, you remain in your bathing suit since the cabanas only have see-through curtains waving in the breeze. What you lack in privacy and perhaps cleanliness, you certainly get back in value and hopefully quality as my therapist Sharon was absolutely excellent.
Rent a Golf Cart: Golf carts are everywhere and offer the best way to explore the 5 mile long island. Though they can be rented for longer periods, I opted for a 9 am to 6 pm day rental from Prisma near the ferry port. They were the only one I could find in advance online to confirm a reservation although finding one the day of would likely not have been a problem. They quoted me $43 USD, but charging my credit card in pesos as I always request, it only came out to $38 USD with my card’s more fair exchange rate. They give you enough gas with no need to refill prior to returning. This was the first time I’d ever driven a golf cart so I have no reference point, but the gas pedal to the floor didn’t produce much speed nor did the brake produce much stopping. Still it was easy to get used to with the exception of the constant hard to spot speed bumps which I either hit at a jarring full speed resulting in head turning expletives or without enough power to get over. There are usually orange signs along the roadside indicating the speed bumps but not always. Common courtesy of course is to ride to the right side allowing scooters and cars to pass. I used Google Maps, but the island roads are very simple running mostly north to south with only a few crossing over.
I started off at Castilla de Garrafon in the south, a spot known for excellent shore snorkeling without the price tag of touristy Garrafon Reef Park next door. It’s a small rundown beach club with a 100 peso or $5 entry fee plus additional small fees for snorkel equipment and lockers. It’s nothing fancy, just the basic beach chairs, umbrellas, and restaurant, but the same million dollar view across to Cancun as the nicer beach clubs. Unfortunately, the water this morning was too rough for my comfort level to go snorkeling though I did see a few others venture out, bobbing on top of the waves and returning with stories of all they had seen. I relaxed here a little while before heading a few minutes down the road to the main attraction Punta Sur.
At this southeastern tip of the island, ancient ruins of a temple to the Mayan Goddess Ixchel were discovered though rather unimpressive since being damaged in a hurricane in the 1980s. The true highlight of this area once passing the out of place restaurant and tourist shops and paying a 30 peso ($1.50) entry fee, is the cliffside views and pathways. Here you will find the Cliff of the Dawn, the easternmost point in Mexico where the first rays of sun rise from the sea making for a popular New Year’s destination. You won’t be alone enjoying the views because besides the few tourists around, there are iguanas everywhere sitting still as statues as they blend into the rock.
From here, I took the east coast road northward looking for Casa Caracol or the Seashell House which turned out to be mostly obscured private property. A few more minutes up the road is an area where locals sell seashell artwork turning “she sells seashells by the seashore” into a reality that’s easier done than said. From there I cut back across to the traffic circle, skipping Hacienda Mundaca which from reviews is sadly in need of improvements, to turn northward on the Sac Bajo peninsula. Sadly, the self-sufficient home of artist Richart Sowa on his floating Joyxee Island made entirely of plastic bottles previously located off-shore here is now gone due to storm damage. I passed on the Tortugranja turtle sanctuary to instead waste the afternoon away at beautiful Zama Beach Club. With no entry fee or minimum spend required, this beach club has chairs, sun beds, swimming pools, a top notch restaurant, water activities such as SUPs and hammocks, and an Instagrammable swing over the water. And I haven’t even mentioned the incredible views towards Cancun’s hotel zone far in the distance. A little drawback is that they have a contract with Cancun Sailing which docks their boats there for a lunch buffet but they actually weren’t too disruptive. Watching the party boats go by in a constant line towards Playa Norte with music blaring, I honored my younger self who had been right there many times, yet felt there was nowhere else I’d rather be in that moment than sitting on a quiet beach, sipping white wine and enjoying a tuna tostada. After a mere 4 hours of such pleasurable enjoyment, I headed back to town via the east coast road, stopping to appreciate the secluded hidden beaches on the rocky shore.
Take a Day Trip: I chose an all day Yucatan trip to Chichen Itza which included Cenote Hubiku and Valladolid with Cancun Sightseeing booked through Expedia for $55. A small breakfast and buffet lunch were included as well as drinks including alcohol. I had to pay an additional $27 for the Chichen Itza entrance fee which included an English speaking guide (Spanish and French were also provided). They picked me up in a small shuttle at the ferry port on the mainland at 7:45 am where I then met up with the main bus in the hotel zone’s Captain’s Cove for an 8:30 am departure (was scheduled as an 8 am to 8 pm tour). It’s 2 hours to Cenote Hubiko, one of the many limestone sinkholes revealing ground water swimming holes in the area, receiving Mayan history from our local guide Sergio along the way. They did scare us into buying $10 bug spray which though suggested prior did not mention DEET was outlawed to save the bees. In retrospect, I’m not so sure the bug spray was necessary if you didn’t know to bring your own especially since you have to wash it off immediately to enter the cenote. We spent an hour and 45 minutes there including swimming (it’s 68 degrees Fahrenheit and does have fish), a tequila factory, and lunch buffet.
It was another hour drive to reach Chichen Itza where we split into 3 groups by language and met another guide who would teach us about the ancient Mayan capital city and civilization. It’s truly fascinating what this ancient culture accomplished, particularly as a peaceful people with more time to learn unlike their warring southern neighbors the Aztecs and Toltecs. Their vast knowledge came from observation of the world around them, noting the patterns in nature that led to a greater understanding of math and science. They loved to party till the sun came up on the solstices, getting super high and talking to the gods, a practice that today is getting attention as a therapeutic intervention in small doses. They were a class system with 10% high class educated people, 20% middle class soldiers, and 70% low class laborers. The only way to change classes was from middle to high as the champion team captain in the ritual ballgames. Seems worth a try right? Unless you’re the captain of the team that loses in the finals as you became offered to the gods in human sacrifice, your heart ripped out while you’re still alive and left on display. In other bad news, the historic site is absolutely teeming with aggressive junk vendors which you should avoid or drive a hard bargain with (I got a tank top for 200 pesos that started at 450 pesos and probably still got ripped off).
Our final stop an hour back towards Cancun was for 30 minutes in the little town square of Valladolid. Outside of breaking up the ride, there is nothing authentic about this town filled with tour buses and souvenir shops except maybe the public toilets which lack seats. If you do need a seat, there are the ‘lovers benches’ in the square where the seats face each other. There’s also a lovely church if you need to repent for saying negative things about a little Mexican town just trying to make its way in this world though over-tourism. We finally made it back to Cancun at 8:10 pm, just in time for me to miss the 8:30 pm ferry and having to wait until 9:30 pm consoling myself over wine and the most amazing creamy guacamole ever.
Eat All The Food: I really felt like I did all the activities I wanted to on the small island, but I was nowhere near trying all the restaurants I wanted. There’s a main pedestrian street Miguel Hidalgo through the center of town full of shops and restaurants which is bustling with activity at night. Walking down here the vendors and restaurant hosts call to you in the street offering their wares. I did eat here a few times, and found it was a little more expensive and crowded than eating at the many options outside of this area. Plus when you get away from this touristy street, you’re less likely to encounter tableside musicians looking for tips and be forced to inhale second hand smoke while you eat. Another big caveat at the restaurants is to confirm ahead if they are cash only as many are. Though my AirBnB host offered many suggestions such as La Lomita, Picus, Skulls, Rooster, Café Mogagua, Olivia, Sardinian Smiel, and Asia Caribe, I went rogue and tried these others.
Fish and Gin: By far my favorite dinner spot, this new kid on the block is just off busy Miguel Hidalgo on Av Francisco Madero but worlds away in terms of ambiance. I loved the tuna tacos and ceviche of the day tostada along with a good wine selection all for under $20 (credit cards accepted). Obviously they are known for their gin cocktails but that’s not my thing.
Xantolo: This one caught my eye when walking the main pedestrian strip with its fancy lit up bar on the corner. The reviews checked out so I gave it a try. I enjoyed the huge portion of battered fish tacos which came out so fast I didn’t even have my drink yet. Cash only, can be smoky if someone is partaking in the close quarters, and you do have to avoid eye contact with the musicians looking for tips.
Aroma Isla: I’d been eyeing this vegan/vegetarian friendly natural spot for breakfast since seeing a post of their avocado toast with salmon which was just as amazing as it looked. Since this was my last meal before flying out, I had the spirulina juice for an extra boost of immunity before boarding the flying petri dish. They serve healthy lunch and dinner too and do accept credit cards.
North Garden: I stopped in here for breakfast on the walk back from yoga despite its website’s claims that it’s closed on Tuesdays. I tried the salmon eggs benedict which was tasty as long as you didn’t look at it covered in black squid ink hollandaise. Unfortunately my potatoes were cold and burnt. They are cash only so come prepared.
Eating meals alone is typically the most difficult part of traveling solo, especially in certain cultures and locations where it’s not common (looking at you, Greece). In Isla Mujeres, the food was so good and came out quickly I just never felt the usual awkwardness of eating alone. I never felt strange or unsafe for traveling solo from the airport, to the island, or on the group tour. If the origin of Isla Mujeres is the comfort provided women by the goddess Ixchel, then its modern day contribution is offering a wonderful and safe place for solo female travelers. And I did have a few words with the fertility goddess, shhhh don’t tell my boyfriend. ;)
Comments